KITECRAFT 

>VHD  KITE  TOUKMAMETf TS 


MILLER 


KITECRAFT 


AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


BY  CHARLES  M.  MILLER 

ASSISTANT  SUPERVISOR  OF  MANUAL  TRAINING 
Los  ANGELES,  CALIFORNIA 


THE  MANUAL  ARTS  PRESS 
PEORIA,  ILLINOIS 


COPYRIGHT, 

CHARLES  M.   MILLER, 
1914. 


The  North  Wind  is  my  prancing  steed, 
The  Bridle  is  my  kite; 

I'll  harness  him,  I'll  drive  him, 

'Till  my  kite's  most  out  of  sight. 
M. 

/  saiu  you   toss  the   kites   on   high, 
And  blow  the  birds  about  the  sky, 
And  all  about  I  heard  you  pass, 
Like  ladies'  skirts  across  the  grass. 
Stevenson. 


INTRODUCTION. 

Perhaps  the  one  word  that  best  expresses  the  trend  of  education 
at  the  present  time  is  the  word  life-likeness.  The  trend  is  toward 
more  and  more  life-likeness  in  organization  and  methods.  The  effort 
toward  diversification  which  has  resulted  in  putting  manual  training 
into  courses  of  study,  in  multiplying  courses  in  high  schools,  in  pro- 
viding ungraded  and  other  special  rooms  in  elementary  schools,  in 
breaking  grades  up  into  groups  for  teaching  and  promotions,  in  keeping 
playgrounds  and  shops  open"  afternoons  and  Saturdays,  in  opening  the 
school  buildings  evenings  for  social  centers  or  socialized  evening  schools, 
— which  has  resulted  in  all  these  changes  and  others  that  might  be 
mentioned, — is  simply  an  effort  to  make  the  schools  like  life.  The 
theory  behind  this  is  that  if  a  school  is  like  life,  children  will  like 
school  for  the  same  reason  that  they  like  life,  and  the  theory  is  sound. 
Before  these  changes  were  introduced,  our  public  schools  were  a  com- 
posite structure,  made  up  nearly  altogether  of  two  elements,  neither  of 
which  was  in  any  degree  life-like.  These  two  elements  were  the 
medieval  monastery,  for  order,  and  the  19th  century  factory,  for  process. 

Kite-making  in  connection  with  schools  is  in  line  with  this  trend 
toward  life-likeness.  As  the  ideas  and  plans  contained  in  this  book 
have  been  worked  out  and  carried  into  execution  in  the  schools  of 
Los  Angeles  by  the  author,  they  have  demonstrated  a  wonderful  social- 
izing power.  By  recognizing  kite-season  in  the  schools  and  carrying 
the  discussion  of  it  into  the  shop  and  classrooms,  ending  with  a  great 
kite-tournament  each  year,  not  only  have  very  many  boys  been  reached 
who  would  not  have  responded  to  other  influences,  but  the  whole  com- 
munity has  been  stirred  to  sympathetic  interest  in  the  schools.  This  is 
the  kind  of  influence  which  causes  children  to  feel  that  school  is  life, 
and  therefore  makes  tremendously  for  wholesome  education.  If  the 
ideas  and  plans  of  the  author  can  be  carried  out  elsewhere  as  they  have 
been  in  Los  Angeles  for  several  years,  they  must  prove  a  help  to  the 
cause  of  education. 

M.  C.  BETTIXGER, 
Assistant  Superintendent  of  Schools. 


PREFACE. 

When  we  started  kite  work  in  the  Los  Angeles  City  Schools,  we 
little  thought  that  so  great  an  opportunity  for  awakening  latent  power 
in  a  certain  class  of  boys  was  being  initiated,  nor  did  we  dream  of  any 
such  kite  tournaments  as  have  been  developed  during  the  past  six  years. 
Starting  with  half  a  dozen  plans,  sent  out  on  mimeographed  sheets  to 
the  various  schools  from  time  to  time  during  the  spring  of  1907,  the 
number  of  kinds  and  designs  have  increased  to  a  hundred  or  more. 
Other  cities  desiring  information  regarding  the  work,  a  reprint  was 
published  and  has  been  in  such  demand  that  it  was  thought  advisable 
to  write  a  more  comprehensive  text  on  the  subject.  Many  of  the  former 
designs  have  been  included,  but  none  but  what  should  be  put  in  more 
permanent  form,  and  most  of  these  have  been  redrawn  for  the  new 
work.  The  plans  are  not  complete  in  every  detail,  something  being  left 
for  the  boy  to  work  out,  but  there  is  enough  in  the  suggestions  so  that 
by  reasonable  planning,  most  of  the  forms  can  be  made  by  the  average 
boy  and  still  something  will  be  left  for  the  expert. 

The  greatest  number  of  kites  will  be  made  by  fifth  and  sixth  year 
boys,  but  the  spirit  holds  over  into  seventh  and  eigKth  for  the  larger 
and  more  complex  forms,  and  even  into  the  high  school  with  model 
aeroplanes,  etc. 

It  is  the  hope  of  the  writer  that  this  little  book  may  be  instrumental 
in  giving  our  boys  and  girls  suggestions  for  many  happy  hours  in  the 
construction  and  flying  of  kites,  and  that  it  may  also  serve  a  good 
purpose  to  teacher  and  pupil  in  reaching  a  common  ground,  and  that 
it  will  help  some  mother  in  furnishing  a  good  healthy  pastime  sport 
for  boys  who  sometimes  try  the  limit  of  one's  patience  for  the  lack  of 
something  to  do.  It  is  a  home  construction  work  largely,  and  it  has 
succeeded  oftimes  much  better  than  was  anticipated,  for  whole  families 
have  become  interested  in  the  development  of  OUR  boy's  kite.  Mother 
generally  is  interested  first,  "while  fathr  looks  with  disfavor  on  so  much 
time  being  spent  on  a  kite;  but  before  it  flies,  father  gets  very  en- 
thusiastic, suggests  here  and  there,  and  furnishes  material  for  string, 


etc.,  with  pleasure,  and  they  all  go  to  the  tournament  to  see  Jack  win 
a  first  prize.     This  is  one  case,  there  are  others. 

I  believe  there  is  need  for  such  books,  and  this  subject  is  without 
such  a  text,  therefore,  this  little  treatise. 

CHARLES  M.  MILLER, 
November  5,  1912.  Los  Angeles,  California, 


CHARLES  M.  MILLER. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

Introduction 5 

Preface 7 

I.      General  Kite  Construction .( 11 

II.      Kite  Accessories 16 

III.  Kinds  of  Kites    20 

IV.  Plain  Surface  Kites 23 

V.      Box-Kites  39 

VI.      Combined  Kites  .  . '. 48 

VII.      Decoration  of  Kites    61 

VIII.      Messengers 69 

IX.      Moving  Devices 75 

X.      Suspended  Figures  and  Appliances 82 

XL      Ballons  and  Parachutes 92 

XII.     Reels   97 

XIII.  Aeroplane  Models 103 

XIV.  Gliders 108 

XV.      Model  Aeroplanes 112 

XVI.      Propellers,  Motors,  Gears,  and  Winding  Devices 121 

XVII.      Tournaments    127 

XVIII.      Tournaments,  Continued    134 

XIX.      Conclusion    140 

XX.      Bibliography  '. 142 


CHAPTER  I. 
GENERAL  KITE  CONSTRUCTION. 

The  kite  is  usually  made  of  a  framework  of  wood,  is  lashed  together 
with  cord,  strung  with  cord  according  to  design,  and  finally  is  covered 
with  paper;  but  in  each  case  some  other  material  might  be  substituted. 

The  drawings  in  this  book  have  the  framework  represented  by  full 
lines  and  the  string  by  slant  dotted  lines.  The  framework  must  be 
kept  light  and  strong.  It  is  usually  made  of  wood,  the  pieces  varying 
in  number  from  two  in  the  plain  tailless,  to  sixteen  in  a  good  box-kite, 
and  to  a  great  many  in  a  large  tetrahedral  kite. 

The  soft  tough  woods  are  better  than  the  hard,  heavy  woods. 
Spruce  is  considered  the  most  satisfactory,  but  yellow  pine,  basswood, 
and  even  white  cedar  will  do.  For  a  three  foot  kite,  the  California 
redwood  shake  is  very  satisfactory.  It  is  a  kind  of  long  shingle  of 
uniform  thickness  thruout,  is  six  inches  wide  and  three  feet  long.  The 
shake  is  split  into  strips  about  TV  or  i"  wide,  and  bends  sufficiently 
for  the  bow.  Some  box  factories  will  rip  out  spruce  sticks  in  25c. 
bundles  for  boys  at  about  one  penny  each.  Some  good  sizes  are 
_3r^x|//x3/>  £"X^"X4'  and  f'xf'xS'.  These  should  be  straight  grained 
and  well  seasoned. 

Sticks  should  be  uniform  in  weight  and  bending  qualities.  Where 
sticks  are  to  be  centered,  careful  measurements  must  be  made,  then  by 
balancing  over  a  knife-blade  the  difference  in  weight  can  be  detected 
and  the  heavy  end  reduced  by  whittling  off  some.  Some  try  to  find 
center  by  balancing,  but  this  is  very  inaccurate;  a  string  may  be  used 
for  measuring.  , 

Aluminum  tubing  is  used, 
especially  for  parts  of  model  aero- 
planes, but  it  is  not  available  in 
many  places.  Some  make  frames 

of   paper,   but  they  are  more  for 

.    .       ,  ...         T-      i  FIG.  l. 

curiosity  than  utility,     ror  large 

frames  bamboo  is  excellent,  but  requires  a  different  fastening  of  joints 
than  sawn  out  material,  Fig.  1.  Split  bamboo  is  excellent  for  curved  out- 
lines and  for  light  framework  of  butterflies  and  bird  kites,  and  for  Jap- 

11 


12 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


anese,  Korean  and  Chinese  kites.    Wire  can  be  used  for  frames  of  small 
kites. 

Lashing.  When  two  sticks  are  to  be  fastened  together,  instead 
of  nailing  with  a  small  brad,  they  should  be  lashed.  First  wind  diag- 
onally around  both  sticks  in  both  directions,  Fig.  2;  then  wind  between 


FIG.  2. 


FIG.  3. 


sticks  around  the  other  windings.     This  draws  all  the  cord  up  tight, 

Fig.  3.    Coat  over  with  glue  or  shellac. 

Large  box-kite  frames  with 
sawn  out  material  should  have  the 
upright  posts'  let  into  the  long 
horizontal  pieces  a  little,  Fig.  4  .  If 

a  brace  is  notched  at  the  end  to  fit 

over  another  piece,  Fig.  5,  and  is 
liable  to  split  out,  it  can  be  wound 
just  back  of  the  notch  with  thread, 

Fig.  6,  and  coated  with  shellac.     All  windings  should  be  neatly  done 

without  criss-cross  windings  as   in   Fig.   7.     Which   do  you  like   best 

Fig.  6  or  Fig.  7? 


FIG.  4. 


FIG.  5.  FIG.  6.  FIG.  7. 

Collapsible  Frames.  Folding  frames  can  be  made  for  most  kites. 
Large  tailless  kites  have  either  a  removable  spine  or  bow,  the  square 
box-kite  has  braces  that  spring  into  shallow  notches,  and  the  triangular 
box  and  house  kite  combination  can  be  rolled  by  having  a  removable 
cross-stick.  It  is  a  great  advantage  to  have  folding  kites. 


GENERAL    KITE    CONSTRUCTION 


13 


Stringing.  Symmetry  is  so  necessary  in  the  making  of  a  good 
kite,  that  the  stringing  becomes  an  important  factor;  for  if  two  opposite 
sides  are  made  unequal,  there  will  be  more  pressure  on  one  side  of x 
center  than  the  other,  the  kite  will  be  pulling  off  to  one  side  or  darting 
down  and  perhaps  will  refuse  to  fly  at  all.  A  small  hard  twisted  cotton 
cord  is  good  for  stringing  as  it  does  not  stretch. 


'c 
FIG.  8. 


FIGS.  9,  10. 


On  kites  where  the  string  passes  around  the  entire  frame,  Fig.  8,  it 
is  best  to  fasten  at  the  end  of  one  stick  only,  as  at  a,  then  pass  in  the 
notches  of  the  ends  of  the  other  sticks  at  b, 
c,  d,  and  tie  again  at  a.     We  must  assume  _„--- 

that  the  horizontal  stick  in  Fig.  8  has  been 
measured  accurately  for  center  as  that  is  a 
part  of  the  framing  process.  The  sticks  can 
be  notched  with  a  knife,  Fig.  9,  or  a  saw- 
cut  can  be  made  in  the  end,  Fig.  10.  The 
latter  is  less  liable  to  split  out,  but  the  first 
is  more  convenient,  for  every  boy  is  likely 
to  have  a  knife  or  can  borrow  one. 

After  the  string  is  secured  around  the 
entire  figure,  adjustment  between  points  is 
made.     If  a  tailless  kite  is  being  strung  up,  the.  two  upper  portions  are 
shifted  until  the  right  and   left  sides  are  equal.     The  ends  are  then 


\ 


\ 


FIG.  11. 


14 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


wound  with  another  cord,  Fig.  11,  to  prevent  slipping.  The  two  lower 
sides  are  then  spaced  and  the  lower  end  of  the  spine  is  secured  in  the 
same  way.  Some  may  think  it  a  waste  of  time  to  measure  the  lower 
strings  after  the  upper  ones  have  been  adjusted,  but  very  often  there  is 
quite  a  little  difference,  due  to  a  springing  of  the  spine.  A  six  pointed 
star  kite  would  have  six,  instead  of  four  spaces  to  even  up.  Some  string- 
ing is  used  for  inside  designs,  and  some  is  used  for  strengthening  frame. 
Covering.  Probably  more  tissue  paper  is  used  in  covering  kites 
than  any  other  material.  There  are  a  number  of  kinds  of  tissue  papers, 
but  the  cheapest,  because  it  is  the  cheapest,  is  used  most.  These  cheap 
tissue  papers  are  now  found  in  all  shades  and  tints  of  colors. 

The  French  tissues  are  more  durable,  and  as  a  rule,  more  brilliant 
in  color.  A  kite  covered  with  this  paper  can  be  used  from  time  to  time 
without  being  disabled. 

The  Chinese  tissue  paper  is  the  strongest  of  all  tissues  in  one  di- 
rection, and  should  be  used  so  as  to  bring  the  length  way  of  the  paper 
in  the  direction  of  greatest  strain.  This  paper  only  comes  in  a  cream 
color,  but  is  very  satisfactory  where  strength  and  hand  color  work  are 
desired.  In  Los  Angeles  \ve  get  two  sheets  for  five  cents,  and  the  size 
is  22"x23".  There  are  some  wrapping  papers  that  are  pliable  and 
strong  enough  to  be  used,  especially  on  box-kites,  but  only  a  few  of  these 

are  of  much  service  on  plain  sur- 
face kites.  The  tight  covering  on 
a  box  kite  is  an  advantage.  Some 
boys  use  a  paper  that  is  commonly 
known  as  a  butter  paper,  and 
others  find  orange  wrapping  paper 
serviceable. 

Of  the  cloth  coverings,  cambric 
is  the  most  popular.     The  sizing 

is  sufficient  to  keep  the  covering  in  shape  during  construction,  it  is  light 
in  weight,  comes  in  variety  of  good  colors  and  is  cheap.  When  cloth  is 
used  on  plain  surface  kites,  care  must  be  observed  that  the  goods  are 
not  used  on  the  bias,  as  the  unequal  stretching  would  unbalance  the  poise 
of  the  kite.  Silk  is  excellent,  but !  !  it  isn't  used  much  by  boys. 


FIG.  12. 


GENERAL    KITE   CONSTRUCTION  15 

Most  coverings  are  turned  over  the  outer  strings,  and  are  pasted 
or  sewn  down.  In  representative  figure  kites,  the  edge  of  the  paper  is 
sometimes  left  free,  while  the  string  is  made  fast  by  extra  strips  of 
paper  pasted  fast  over  the  string  and  to  the  back  of  the  cover,  Fig.  12, 
thus  leaving  the  edges  to  flutter  in  the  breeze.  Some  large  kites  can 
be  covered  with  paper,  if  a  network  of  string  is  used  at  the  back  to  give 
support  to  the  covering. 

Tailless,  and  some  other  kites  require  loose  coverings,  this  looseness 
should  be  planned  for  in  a  systematic  manner.  If  the  cover  of  a  3-foot 
kite  is  placed  on  a  table  or  the  floor  with  the  frame  laid  on  top,  the 
edge  of  the  cover  may  be  cut  one  inch  or  one  and  one-half  inches  to  the 
outside  of  the  string.  Instead  of  turning  in  this  whole  amount,  only 
turn  in  one-half  inch  of  the  outer  edge.  This  leaves  plenty  of  looseness 
for  bagging  of  cover,  and  is  regular. 


CHAPTER  II. 
KITE  ACCESSORIES 

The  Bridle.  The  kite  is  not  supposed  to  be  finished  until  the 
bridle  (or  belly  band)  is  attached.  Nearly  all  kites  require  a  bridle, 
a  very  few  have  the  kite  line  tied  directly  to  some  one  point  of  the 
framework.  The  bridle  is  a  very  important  part  of  the  kite  equip- 
ment, as  the  kite  is  dependent  on  it  for  the  proper  distribution  of 
pull  by  the  kite  line,  it  also  gives  the  inclination  of  the  exposed  surface 
to  the  breeze.  The  inclination  is  varied  slightly  for  various  purposes, 
such  as  high  flying,  strong  pulling,  steady  flying,  etc.  To  make  the 
kite  fly  directly  over  head,  the  kite  line  is  attached  above  the  normal 


FIG.  13. 


FIG.  15. 


FIG.  14. 


point,  and  to  make  it  fly  low,  the  attachment  should  be  below  normal. 
If  the  single  line  can  be  attached  to  the  framework  so  as  to  give  this 
inclination,  no  bridle  is  needed  but  it  is  usually  difficult  to  locate  the 
right  point. 

Many  kites  need   attachment  of  bridle  in   but   two   places,   while 
others  require  three,  some  four,  and  some  are  benefited  by  the  use  of 


16 


KITE    ACCESSORIES 


17 


many  strings  to  the  bridle,  but  the  last  may  be  used  for  strengthening 
the  framework  of  the  kite  more  than  for  general  poise.  The  Chinese 
say  there  should  never  be  more  than  three  strings  to  the  bridle,  while 
the  Japanese  use  many. 

The  tailless  kite  may  have  the  bridle  attached  at  the  bottom  and 
top  of  the  spine  (the  vertical  stick  of  the  frame)  or  the  bottom  and  at 
the  crossing  of  bow  and  spine.  In  either  case  the  bridle  must  be  long 
enough  so  that  when  it  is  drawn  over  to  the  side  of  the  kite,  the  loop 
will  just  -reach  the  outer  points  of  the  bow,  Fig.  13;  ac  should  be  the 
same  length  as  ab,  and  cd  the  same  length  as  bd.  The  normal  point 
of  attachment  of  kite  line  is  at  c,  the  point  that  just  reaches  b  or  e 
when  drawn  to  the  side.  Some  bird  kites  have  a  similar  bridle  but 
much  shorter  between  attachments.  More  of  the  form  kites  have  three 
and  four  strings  to  the  bridle.  The  three  string  bridle  is  usually  two 
strings  above  and  a  longer  one  below,  Fig.  14.  The  four  string  bridle 
has  two  short  uppers  and  two  long  lowers,  Fig.  15.  For  the  poly  string 
bridle,  see  Fig.  16.  Some  have  advocated  an  elastic  bridle  but  the 
writer  has  never  found  it  of  any  great  advantage. 


FIG.  16.  FIG.  17. 

A  double  bridle  with  a  kite  line  to  each,  makes  a  dirigible  kite 
possible,  which  may  be  useful  in  a  number  of  ways  and  which  can  give 
much  amusement  in  kite  antics  that  is  not  possible  with  a  single  kite 
line.  A  double  bridle  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  17.  Such  a  kite  can  be 
driven  at  will.  The  kite  becomes  a  sail  and  can  be  pulled  to  right  and 
left,  in  circles  and  various  contortions,  out  of  the  ordinary. 

Kite  Lines.  A  three  or  four  ply  cotton  wrapping  string  is  used 
more  than  any  other  and  is  very  satisfactory  for  three-foot  kites  and 
smaller.  The  hard  twisted  cotton  seine  twine  comes  from  six  to  over 


18 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


a  hundred  ply,  and  is  excellent  for  kite  lines.     It  is  strong  and  does  not 
burn  the  hands,  nor  kink  as  much  as  hemp  twine. 

For  high  flying  or  racing  work,  a  light  strong  cord  is  necessary.  A 
small  kite  can  carry  up  a  great  amount  of  silk  or  linen  thread  but  one 
should  have  a  reel  and  gloves  to  handle  it.  Shoemakers  thread  and 
upholstering  twine  are  also  used.  Some  think  that  waxing  a  string 
makes  it  stronger,  but  by  actual  tests  before  and  after  waxing,  there 
was  no  appreciable  difference  in  the  amount  of  endurance  of  strain  before 
breaking.  Waxing  does  preserve  the  string  and  prevents  fraying  and 
untwisting. 

When  kites  are  put  up  in  tandem,  the  string  need  only  be  as  strong 
for  the  first  kite  as  is  ordinarily  used  for  one  of  its  size,  but  as  other 
kites  are  added  the  size  of  the  cord  must  be  increased.     This  grading 
of  the  string,  greatly  reduces  the  total  weight  and  cost  of  the  kite  line. 
Reels.    You  can  fish  without  a  reel  and  you  can  fly 
a  kite  without  one,  but  the  reel  is  a  great  convenience 
and  an  absolute  necessity  at  times  for  both.     The  reel 
in  brief  is  a  large  spool  with   flanges  on  both  ends, 
a  central   axle  fixed   to   the  spool,   a   frame   for  sup- 
porting the  axle,   a  guide   for  the  string  to  prevent 
its  running  off  the  reel,  and  a  brake  to  prevent  too 
rapid  unwinding  when  letting  out  the  string.     A  reel 
can   be   made  without   a   crank,   by   having   the   axle 
supported  at  one  end  only,  and  a  knob  handle  fastened 
to  the  outer   face  of   the  reel   for  winding  purposes. 
For  further  directions,  see  chapter  on  Reels. 

Tails.  A  tail  and  other  balancers  are  used  to 
give  poise  to  an  otherwise  unsteady  kite.  When  a  kite 
is  constructed  in  such  a  way  as  to  present  a  broad  flat 
surface  to  the  breeze,  it  will  sway  and  dive  and  no 
matter  how  carefully  you  attach  your  bridle  it  cannot 
be  supported  in  the  air. 

For  kites  that  represent  irregular  forms,  there  must  also  be  a  special 
balancer.  The  tail  is  usually  resorted  to  in  such  cases.  The  tail  is  more 
than  a  weight.  A  foxy  kite  refuses  to  come  to  terms  by  the  addition  of  a 
thread  and  lead  or  other  weight.  The  weight  drops  so  quickly  to  its  plumb 


FIG.  18. 


KITE    ACCESSORIES 


19 


line   that   the   kite   has   not   come   to   poise,   and    makes   another   pitch 

in  some  other  direction.     The  value  of  the  tail  depends  not  so  much 

on    weight    as    on    its    pulling   capacity   while    being   drawn    thru    the 

air.     The  tail,  usually  consisting  of  a  string  with  a          \ 

number  of  pieces  of  paper  folded  and  tied  thereon,  ^ 

Fig.   18,   and  with  cloth  streamers  at  the  end  for 

weight,   exerts   considerable   pull   for   long   enough 

time  to  give  steadiness  to  the  kite.     A  kite  must 

have  poise  in  the  air  just  as  we  balance  a  board  on 

the  end  of  a  finger  —  if  the  finger  is  not  centrally 

located,   the   board   will   fall   to   the  left   or   right, 

front   or   back;    so   with  the    kite,    if    the    pressure 

of    the    air    is    not    centrally    located    it    will    glide 

to  left    or    right,    or    pitch    forward    or    tumble 

backwards.     The  tail  helps  most  in  remedying  the 

two  latter  troubles.     Almost  any  light  surface  can 

be  supported  in  the  air  by    proper    attachment    of 

bridle  and  tail.    The  Japanese  use  two  or  more  tails 

on  their  square  kites  consisting  usually  of  long  cot- 

ton ropes  with  large  tassels  on  the  end.    These  look 

very  beautiful  trailing  out  in  long  graceful  parallel 

lines. 

Another  form  of  air  resistance  found  serviceable, 
is  hollow  cones  or  funnel  shaped  devices  of  light 
cardboard  attached  by  cords  to  the  kite  in  place  of 
tails,  Fig.  19. 

A  Chinese  boy  had  a  colored  paper  ball  about 
8"  in  diameter  attached  by  a  string  to  one  of  the 
kites  last  year,  Fig.  20.  Another  form  is  the  inter- 
sected cardboard  discs,  Fig.  21.  Other  forms  can 
be  used. 

Christmas  and  other  paper  rope  used  for  decora- 
tion purposes  could  be  used  to  advantage  for  tails  of 


FIGS.   19,  20,  21. 


kites.  They  will  catch  the  breeze  and  can  be  festooned  into  pretty  designs 
but  will  need  cord  supports  to  give  strength. 

Don't  throw  away  a  kite  because  it  has  to  have  a  tail.    The  tail  is 
sometimes  the  most  beautiful  part. 


CHAPTER  III. 
KINDS  OF  KITES. 

Kites  are  so  numerous  in  kinds  and  design  nowadays  that,  in  order 
to  get  at  any  kind  of  intelligent  discussion  of  them,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  segregate  them  into  classes  and  varieties  as  the  scientist  does  in  his 
investigations  of  nature  study.  There  is  the  great  big  subject  of  con- 
structive sport  called  kite  making.  The  name  kite  strikes  joy  to  any 
live  boy's  heart  and  it  does  him  good  too.  But  kite  making  is  too  big, 
so  we  will  try  running  some  cross-roads  thru,  thus  dividing  it  into 
smaller  groups. 

A  large  number  of  kites  can  be  classed  together  as  having  the  same 
general  make-up  and  we  will  call  the  first,  Class  A,  Plain  Surface 
Kites.  These  kites  have  one  general  surface  without  any  built  out 
parts,  and  can  be  subdivided  into  two  divisions:  1.  Geometric  and 
regular  forms,  2.  Irregular  and  representative  forms. 

There  are  two  divisions  of  the  geometric  and  regular  forms: 

a.  Tailless  kites. 

b.  Kites  with  tails,  regular  in  form. 
The  two  divisions  of  irregular  forms  are: 

a.  Set  pieces  of  design. 

b.  Insect,  bird,  animal,  and  man  kites. 

This  brings  the  analysis  for  Class  A  down  to  variety  which  will  be 
discussed  in  succeeding  chapters. 

Class  B.     Box-Kites,    has   six   subdivisions: 

1 .  Square. 

2.  Rectangular. 

3.  Triangular. 

4.  Cylindrical. 

5.  Hexagonal. 

6.  Tetrahedral. 

Class  C.  Combined  Kites.  Box-kites  may  have  additions  of  plain 
surfaces,  or  combinations  of  curved  surfaces  and  plain  ones,  giving 
shapes  that  represent  hollow  forms  of  fish,  animals,  etc. 

1.  Straight  extensions  of  plain  surfaces. 

2.  Hollow  shapes  representing  animal  and  mechanical  forms. 

20 


KINDS  OF  KITES  21 


Class  D.  Kites  in  Series.  These  are  made  up  of  combined  kites 
also,  but  the  combinations  are  so  different  that  they  belong  in  a  class  by 
themselves. 

1.  Compound  kites. 

2.  Kites  in  tandem. 

a.  Connected  directly  to  one  line. 

b.  Connected   by  individual  lines  of  some  length  to 

one  main  line. 

3.  Dragon  Kites. 

The  plain  kites  are  the  more  numerous  for.  several  reasons.  They 
are  more  easily  constructed,  take  less  time,  use  less  material,  fly  in 
lighter  breeze,  and  are  usually  more  stable  in  air.  The  construction  as 
a  rule  consists  of  two  or  three  sticks  as  a  framework  with  a  covering 
stretched  over  it  so  as  to  form  a  simple  plane  that  is  exposed  to  the 
breeze.  Of  course,  there  are  tricks  in  making  the  plain  kites,  but  almost 
any  of  them  can  be  made  to  fly  by  either  warping  the  surface  or  attach- 
ing a  tail. 

Box-kites  require  considerable  time  and  are  more  difficult  in  con- 
struction. They  are  a  built  up  framework  with  cloth  or  strong  paper 
coverings.  The  frames  must  be  kept  light  and  strong,  and  a  process 
of  trussing  is  necessary  to  accomplish  this.  The  covering  seldom  covers 
the  whole  framework  but  usually  is  made  in  bands.  The  space  enclosed 
by  a  band  is  called  a  cell.  Most  box-kites  consist  of  a  forward  and  rear 
cell,  that  is  a  band  is  found  at  each  end  around  the  framework,  trans- 
versely to  the  length  of  the  kite.  Some  of  the  most  practical  working 
kites  are  of  the  box-kite  type.  By  working  kite,  I  mean  kites  that  are 
used  for  a  purpose  other  than  pleasure. 

Some  box-kites  have  extended  wings  of  plain  surfaces  to  gain  more 
lifting  power,  or  for  poise,  and  the  application  of  these  appendage* 
serves  to  explain  the  combination  of  kinds  that  form  this  group. 

In  the  group  "Kites  in  Series"  we  have  kites  of  the  same  kind 
fastened  rigidly  together  making  one  kite,  called  a  compound  kite,  also 
kites  fastened  one  after  the  other  a  few  feet  apart  on  one  line  and  all 
started  up  at  one  time,  and  still  another  set  of  similar  kites  in  which 
a  numbr  of  kites  are  put  up  on  individual  strings,  one  at  a  time,  for 


22  KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 

perhaps  300  feet,  and  are  then  attached  to  the  main  kite  line.  Boys 
sometimes  succeed  in  pulling  up  as  high  as  forty  kites  on  one  line  by 
this  method.  Another  very  interesting  and  beautiful  series  is  the 
Chinese  dragon  kite  type.  In  this  a  number  of  kites  are  harnessed 
together  with  about  three  cords  running  from  head  to  tail. 

These  various  groups  will  receive  more  explicit  directions  in  separate 
chapters  as  we  proceed.  So  far  in  our  analysis  we  have  been  dealing 
with  kinds  of  kites  as  to  construction.  There  will  be  a  number  of 
chapters  on  various  other  features  of  kite  work  and  accessories,  includ- 
ing, Kite  Decoration,  Messengers,  etc.  The  Chinese  and  Japanese 
people  have  been  making  kites  a  great  many  years  and  have  become 
very  skilful  workers  and  decorators.  Their  decorations  seem  to  tend 
more  toward  the  dipicting  of  ugliness  and  fierceness  instead  of  beauty 
and  color  harmony,  altho  many  of  the  color  combinations  are  very 
effective.  The  tendency  toward  fierceness  can  well  be  understood  when 
we  consider  that  it  has  a  part  in  their  religion,  it  being  supposed  that 
such  ugly  monsters  helped  to  drive  away  the  evil  spirits. 

The  large  Japanese  square  kite,  which  is  rectangular  in  shape  instead 
of  square,  usually  has  a  big  head  with  plenty  of  the  whites  of  the 
eyes  and  teeth  showing.  Some  very  fine  specimens  have  been  exhibited 
at  our  "Kite  Tournaments".  They  expend  quite  freely  in  making  up 
their  kites,  use  costly  ornaments  and  considerable  gilt  and  black.  The 
gilt  is  usually  very  good  that  is  used. 

While  the  orientals  have  shown  us  some  stunning  effects  in  decora- 
tion, I  believe  that  the  future  will  show  some  results  of  color  harmony 
and  artistic  spacing  that  will  be  much  superior  to  theirs.  We  are 
busy  as  yet  trying  to  master  the  kite  craft  from  the  constructive  and 
flying  side,  but  we  are  getting  on,  even  on  the  decorative  side  as  well. 

We  are  now  ready  to  discuss  variety  in  the  next  chapter. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
PLAIN  SURFACE  KITES. 

The  tailless  continues  to  be  the  most  popular  of  all  the  kites.  No 
matter  how  artistic,  how  representative,  how  curious,  or  how  mechanical 
the  new  kites  may  be,  the  tailless  is  the  first  and  last  out  every  season. 
It  flies  in  a  very  light  breeze,  and  is  so  steady  in  the  air.  There  are 
several  kinds  of  tailless,  but  the  two  stick  Eddy  Kite  seems  to  be  the 
winner.  These  kites  are  made  from  five  inches  to  thirty  feet  in  height. 


\ 


FIGS.  22,  23,  24,  25. 


This  kite,  Figs.  8  and  22,  has  two  sticks  of  equal  length,  the  vertical 
stick  is  called  the  spine,  and  should  be  straight,  while  the  bow  is  placed 
about  one-fifth  the  distance  down  from  the  top  of  the  spine.  This  bow 
stick  is  bent  backward  by  inserting  a  brace  stick  as  shown  by  Fig.  23. 


23 


24 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


The  advantage  of  a  removable  brace  stick  will  be  recognized  when  a 
person  tries  to  carry  several  kites  to  a  field  at  one  time.  If  the  brace 
stick  is  out,  the  kites  lie  flat  and  do  not  injure  each  other,  so  that 
twenty-five  or  more  might  be  carried  by  one  person,  but  if  the  kite  is 
bowed,  there  may  be  great  difficulty  in  carrying  two  or  three.  Most 
boys  bow  about  three  inches  for  a  three-foot  kite.  See  Chapter  1  for 
the  stringing  of  this  kite. 


FIGS.  26,  27,  28,  29. 

The  tailless  kites  are  nearly  all  constructed  so  as  to  have  a  keel 
projecting  out  to  the  front.  In  order  that  the  keel  may  be  of  more 
service,  the  covering  is  not  stretched  tight,  but  is  left  loose.  Perhaps  an 
inch  along  each  side  would  be  allowed  for  bagging  or  pocketing.  See 
Chapter  I  on  covering.  If  the  covering  is  drawn  tight,  the  kite  will 
dodge  and  will  probably  dive  to  destruction. 

Now  we  can  modify  this  type  form  of  kite.  We  can  use  two  spines 
and  two  bows,  Fig.  24.  In  this  kite  the  upper  bow  should  be  bent  more 


PLAIN  SURFACE  KITES 


25 


than  the  lower,  and  the  bridle  will  be  of  more  service  if  attached  to  the 
upper  bow  at  two  points  about  midway  from  spine  to  end  of  bow.  The 
covering  should  not  be  quite  so  loose  on  this  kite  as  on  Fig.  22  but  should 
not  be  tight.  Another  variation  is  given  in  Fig.  25,  in  which  two  spines 
are  used  and  one  bow.  Sometimes  the  spines  are  crossed  as  shown  in 
Fig.  26,  the  distance  being  much  greater  at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top 


FIGS.  30,  31,  32,  33. 

between  the  ends  of  the  spine  sticks.  A  modification  of  the  last  two  is 
shown  in  Fig.  27,  in  which  a  built  out  keel  is  shown.  Two  small  braces 
project  from  the  bottom  of  each  spine  with  a  third  stick  connecting 
their  meeting  place  with  the  center  of  the  bow  stick. 

Still  one  other  combination  is  a  form  that  can  be  used  as  a  founda- 
tion for  many  outline  shapes.  It  is  shown  in  Fig.  28,  and  has  two 
spines  and  two  bows;  but  where  much  modification  is  made,  a  tail  or 
other  balancers  must  be  used.  A  kite  with  a  broken  bow  is  like  a  bird 


PLAIN   SURFACE   KITES 


27 


with  a  broken  wing,  but  if  broken  in  the  center  it  can  be  redeemed  for 
service  by  the  addition  of  a  cross-stick,  as  shown  in  Fig.  29.  The 
broken  part  should  be  well  lashed  together.  A  kite  could  be  successfully 
planned  in  this  way  from  the  beginning.  It  is  possible  to  make  a 
number  of  geometric  or  representative  forms  as  tailless  kites,  but  repre- 
sentative forms  as  a  rule  need  tails. 

The  shield,  Fig.  30,  is  one  of  the  tailless  kites  and  the  writer 
succeeded  ^very  well  with  a  two  bowed  tailless  in  the  shape  of  a  six 
pointed  star.  See  Fig.  32. 

Perhaps  the  largest  group  in  real  variation  is  that  in  which  kites 
with  tails  or  other  forms  of  balances  are  found.  And  first  and  fore- 
most, comes  our  grandfathers'  old  English  bow  kite,  Fig.  18,  having  a 
bow  that  curves  upward,  but  not  backward,  over  the  end  of  a  single 
spine.  Tassels  were  added  at  each 
side  of  the  kite  at  the  termination 
of  each  end  of  the  bow,  and  a  long 
tail  of  rolled  papers  tied  to  a  string 
with  a  cloth  hanging  at  the  end 
was  attached  to  the  bottom  of  the 
spine. 

The  great  class  of  star  kites, 
with  varying  numbers  of  points, 
and  the  geometric,  hexagonal,  octa- 
gonal, and  other  forms  belong  to 
this  group.  A  three  string  bridle 
is  most  satisfactory  for  most  of 
these  forms.  The  two  upper 
strings  of  bridle  should  be  the 
same  length  but  shorter  than  the 
lower  string.  The  latter  should 
be  attached  at  a  central  point  at  the  bottom.  In  case  there  is  no  stick  to 
anchor  to  at  the  center  of  the  bottom,  four  strings  may  be  necessary  or 
two  longer  ones  may  be  used  at  the  bottom  and  one  shorter  one  at  the  top. 
However  the  bridle  is  attached,  the  shorter  strings  are  always  at  the 
top,  and  the  single  string  must  be  centrally  located  to  right  and  left, 
whether  at  the  top  or  bottom,  and  the  double  portions  on  equal  distances 
to  each  side  of  center  line. 

3 


FIG.  36. 


28 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


The  bridle  for  a  single  spine  and  bow  tailless  is  something  attached 
at  top  and  bottom  of  spine,  or  at  the  intersection  of  bow  and  spine,  and 
at  bottom  of  spine.  In  either  case  the  bridle  should  be  long  enough 
so  that  when  stretched  out  to  the  side  of  the  kite  while  attached  at  the 
two  points  named,  it  will  just  reach  out 
to  the  end  of  the  bow ;  and  at  this  point 
the  kite  line  is  attached ;  see  Fig.  13.  Fig. 
33  shows  a  hexagonal  kite.  The  same 
framework  could  be  covered  as  a  star  kite, 
Fig.  34.  There  may  be  any  number  of 
points  to  a  star  kite,  but  most  boys  make 
the  six-pointed  ones.  Sometimes  the 
points  are  arranged  as  in  Fig.  35,  and 
again  as  in  Fig.  33.  Fig.  36  shows  a 
very  interesting  tail  for  smaller  star  kites. 
Fig.  37  has  another  arrangement  of 
stars  for  the  tail.  Fig.  38  shows  a  pen- 
tagonal kite  and  its  construction.  The 
bridle  might  be  attached  at  one  upper 
point  and  the  two  lower  points. '  Fig. 
39  shows  an  addition  to  the  six-pointed 
star,  in  the  shape  of  a  crescent.  Note 
that  two  sticks  are  longer,  extending 
across  the  crescent,  thus  giving  more 
rigidity  to  the  surface.  The  outline  of 
the  crescent  was  made  of  split  bamboo. 
In  a  similar  manner,  a  broad  circle  could 
be  formed  about  Fig.  38.  See  38a. 

Star  and  hexagonal  kites  are  not  the 
only  members  of  the  regular  shapes  with 
tails.  The  Japanese  square  kite,  Fig. 
40,  which  is  usually  rectangular  in  shape, 
has  a  vertical  spine,  two  diagonal  spines, 

and  several  horizontal  ribs  that  are  lighter  in  weight  than  the  spines.  The 
larger  the  kite,  the  more  horizontal  ribs  will  be  required.     By  making 


FIG.  37. 


PLAIN   SURFACE   KITES 


29 


rf 

iS    L 


FIGS.  38,  3  8  a,  39,  40. 


30 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


removable  spines  the  kites  can  be  rolled  up  and  the  Japanese  have 
exhibited  some  very  beautiful  ones  that  have  been  imported.  Some  of 
these  cost  as  high  as  $30.00  or  more.  The  two  long  ropelike  tails 
swinging  in  graceful,  parallel  curves  give  a  beautiful  effect  to  the 


FIG.  40a. 


whole  kite.     The  bridle  is  usually  attached  at  many  places  on  this  kite. 

Regular  forms  of  kites  are  many.     In  Fig.  41  the  circle  is  of  reed 

or  split  bamboo.     It  would  be  well  to  fasten  the  bridle  at  four  points. 

Fig.   42    needs   no   special    explanation    as    the   construction    is   similar 


PLAIN   SURFACE   KITES 


31 


to  Fig.  41.  The  balloon  kite  is  another  modification.  The  ship 
kites,  Figs.  43,  44,  45,  45a,  show  the  construction  in  the  drawing. 
A  piece  of  pasteboard  is  used  for  the  hull.  They  make  pretty  kites. 


FIG.  43.  FIG.  44.  FIG.  45. 

The  irregular  forms  are  more  representative,  and  to  many, 
more  interesting,  because  with  patience  and  ingenuity  almost  any 
form  can  be  made  to  float  in  the  air.  Soaring  birds,  Fig.  46,  are 
attractive  and  their  construction  is  unique.  Split  bamboo  is  mostly 
used  for  the  framework.  The  Chinese  boys  take  small  strips  of 


32  KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 

the  Chinese  tissue  paper  to  lash  the  pieces  of  frame  together.  It 
is  very  light  and  if  twisted  while  wet,  becomes  tight  and  strong 
when  dry.  The  covering  is  also  of  Chinese  tissue  and  colored  with 
a  water  color  brush.  A  group  of  about  five  of  these  kites  is  very  interest- 
ing when  soaring  about  on  high.  A  pleasing  modification  is  an  ingenious 
tail  attachment  that  is  hinged  to  the  body  so  that  the  tail  drops  and  is 
raised  again  by  the  breeze,  giving  the  appearance  of  fluttering  when  a 
little  distance  away.  Fig.  47  is  a  photograph  of  three  that  were  flown  at 
one  time  and  were  mistaken  by  many  for  real  birds,  while  Fig.  48  is  a 
photograph  of  a  pair  with  fluttering  tails.  In  each  picture  the  back  of 
one  bird  is  shown.  In  Fig.  47  the  birds  are  flat  but  in  Fig.  48  the  bodies 
are  rounded  out,  giving  a  keel  to  the  kite.  This  is  done  by  making  a  light 
framework  of  small  split  bamboo.  Notice  the  little  patches  of  paper 
on  the  back  that  hold  the  string,  allowing  the  edge  of  the  covering  to 
float  and  flutter  as  feathers.  The  bridle  attachment  may  be  two  strings, 
as  in  Fig.  13,  and  may  be  three,  as  in  Fig.  14.  A  set  piece  is  shown 
in  Fig.  49,  with  an  American  flag  fluttering  as  a  balancer.  This  makes 
a  very  beautiful  kite  when  enough  time  is  put  on  it  to  make  the  bird 
stand  out  clear  and  real  in  appearance.  One  boy  cut  papers  and  stuck 
on  to  a  background  for  feathers  and  while  he  succeeded  well  it  is  not 
necessary  and  not  as  effective  as  a  few  good  strokes  with  a  water  color 
brush. 

Butterflies  offer  a  great  variety  in  design  and  color,  the  best  results 
being  obtained  by  pasting  the  striking  colors  over  the  general  covering. 
A  more  jjermanent  kite  can  be  made  by  using  the  Chinese  tissue  with 
strong  water  colors,  and  it  is  more  a  work  of  art.  A  kite  thirty  inches 
across,  made  of  bamboo  and  Chinese  paper  will  last  for  years  if  it  has 
good  care.  Butterfly  kites  have  been  made  to  fly  without  tails  but 
nearly  all  need  one.  Two  drawings  are  shown,  Fig.  50  shows  the 
double  tail  of  ribbon  and  button  of  cardboard  at  bottom.  The  body 
is  curved  like  the  bird  form,  Fig.  48,  and  the  edge  of  the  wing  is 
scalloped  but  the  waves  are  longer  than  for  feathers.  A  Chinese  boy 
made  this  and  placed  a  small  silk  Chinese  flag  on  one  side  of  the 
head  and  a  like  American  flag  on  the  other.  The  antennae  were 
pieces  of  small  reed  with  silk  balls  that  are  sometimes  used  in  orna- 
menting draperies  and  gowns. 


PLAIN   SURFACE   KITES 


33 


. 


. 


34 


K.ITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


\ 


FIGS.  49,  49a,  50,  51. 


PLAIN   SURFACE   KITES 


35 


Animal  Forms.  The  animals 
are  not  limited  to  bears,  but  horses, 
elephants,  etc.,  can  be  outlined  in 
kite  forms.  Fig.  52  shows  a  stand- 
ing bear  with  little  bears  swinging 
beween  ropes  as  balancers  for  the 
large  bear.  The  ropes  in  the  kite 
may  be  strips  of  cambric.  Small 
strips  of  wood  should  cross  from 
one  rope  to  the  other  back  of  the 
little  bears  which  are  made  of 
medium  thick  cardboard.  The 
bridle  can  be  attached  from  the 
bear's  shoulders  to  the  bottom  of 
the  spine  stick.  The  bridle  is  at- 
tached only  to  the  large  bear. 

A  horse  carrying  a  knight  in 
armor,  or  horses  hitched  to  a  char- 


FIG.  52. 

iot,  would  take  much  planning  but 
are  within  reach.  An  elephant  with 
splendid  equipment  of  royal  hang- 
ings would  make  a  gorgeous  ap- 
pearance. When  difficult  problems 
of  this  kind  are  attempted  it  should 
be  by  kite  makers  of  experience  as 
much  adjusting  will  be  necessary, 
and  plans  for  framework  will  be 
needed  that  will  give  rigidity  and 
lightness.  Some  parts  in  a  complex 
design  will  need  stiffening  with 
reed  bent  out  and  around  from  the 
framework.  Sometimes  a  small 
outline  may  be  effected  by  means  of 
stiff  paper  and  again  a  string  may 
be  stretched  from  some  distant  stick 


FIG.  53. 


36 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


of  the  framework  so  as  to  carry  the  covering  out  to  certain  lines.     By 

careful  planning  some  very  complicated  forms' can  be  worked  out.     In 

the  mounted  knight,  Fig.  53,  the  nose  of  the  horse  will  be  a  straight 

stick,  but  the  upper  line  of  neck  and  lower  part  of  head  will  be  bent 

reed,   and  of  good  weight.     The 

raised  knee  and  foot  are  reed,  while 

the    under    side    of    neck    changes 

from    the    line    of    the    breast    by 

means  of  a  string.     The  back  of 

the   foreleg   on   the   ground    is   of 

string,  while  the  extension  of  the 

stirrup    might    be    of    stiff    paper. 

Much  can  be  done  with  the  brush. 

For  instance,  the  dropping  down 

of  the  rump  to  the  tail  would  be 

curved,  let  the  outline  run  angular,  then  with  a  heavy  streak  of  color, 

give  form.  A  little  silver  paper  on  the  armor  will  spice  it  up  wonderfully. 


FIG.  55. 

We  might  consider  a  mechanical  model,  an  electric  coupe,  Fig.  54. 
The  tires  may  be  somewhat  exaggerated  and  stationary,  while  the  in- 


PLAIN  SURFACE  KITES 


37 


FIGS.   56,   57, 


38  KITECRAFT   AND   KITE  TOURNAMENTS. 

side  spokes  and  hub  could  be  in  the  form  of  a  small  windmill  so  as  to 
turn  around,  giving  the  effect  of  running.  In  such  case,  the  fans  should 
be  so  turned  as  to  turn  the  wheels  in  the  same  direction.  By  the  use  of 
a  double  bridle  and  two  kite  lines,  it  would  be  possible  to  cause  the 
auto  to  travel  across  the  sky.  Electric  cars  and  locomotives  might  be 
similarly  made  and  manipulated. 

When  reed  or  bamboo  are  to  be  bent  for  some  very  particular  form, 
it  might  be  well  to  lay  it  out  on  a  board  with  brads  on  each  side,  leaving 
it  to  dry.  In  this  way  a  truer  form  may  be  secured.  Bamboo  can  be 
bent  into  shape  by  a  little  heating  over  a  flame. 

The  human  kite  has  all  the  possibilities  of  caricature  in  it,  and  there 
are  some  very  funny  attempts.  "Just  Boy,"  Fig.  55,  is  a  good  one,  and 
"Foxy  Grandpa"  is  popular.  Fig.  56  is  the  "Squared  Chinaman".  The 
"Clown  and  Donkey,"  Fig.  57,  is  rather  easy,  being  a  combination  of 
three  tailless  kites.  The  "Dutch  Girl"  makes  a  good  kite,  also  "Me 
Happy,"  Fig.  58.  In  these  as  in  the  previous  sub-group,  much  of  the 
effect  is  dependent  on  skilful  handling  of  brush,  after  the  kite  has  been 
constructed.  The  flying  depends  much  on  the  attachment  of  bridle  and 
balancers. 


CHAPTER  V. 
BOX-KITES. 

Box-kites  were  a  new  invention  a  very  few  years  ago.  People  said, 
"No  use  trying  to  put  a  drygoods  box  up  in  the  air,"  and  yet  some- 
thing very  similar  in  shape  has  been  successfully  used  for  a  number  of 
practical  purposes.  The  box-kites  usually  require  more  breeze  than 
the  plain  surface  kites,  but  are  stronger  pullers,  which  means  also 
heavier  lifters  than  their  lighter  breeze  cousins.  Before  entering  the 
discussion  of  box-kites,  it  will  be  well  to  understand  some  terms  that 
ar  used  quite  generally  by  all  kite  enthusiasts.  Fig.  59  is  a  plain  two- 
celled  box-kite;  a,  is  the  length  of  the  kite.  The  framework  consists 
of  four  sticks,  one  at  each  corner,  and  four  braces,  two  near  each  end 
of  the  kite,  placed  diagonally  across  the  inside  of  the  kite  from  one 
corner  stick  to  the  other.  The  covering  consists  of  two  bands  passing 
on  the  outside  of  the  four  corner  sticks,  one  band  at  each  end. 

The  band  and  space  enclosed  is  called  a  cell  of  the  kite.  So  this  kite 
has  two  cells.  The  length  of  the  cell  is  the  same  as  the  width  of  the 
kite  and  is  represented  by  b;  the  depth  of  the  cell  is  the  same  as  the 
height  of  the  kite  in  its  present  position,  and  is  shown  by  letter  e;  the 
breadth  of  the  cell  by  letter  d;  and  the  distance  between  cells,  c,  is  called 
the  vent.  Nearly  all  box-kites  require  the  vent,  and  the  vent  is  usually 
wider  than  the  breadth  of  the  cell.  Usually  the  two  cells,  the  fore  and 
aft,  are  the  same  size,  but  not  necessarily  so.  No  one  would  be  seen 
flying  a  box-kite  wyith  any  kind  of  tail  unless  that  had  a  purpose  in 
carrying  out  the  design.  The  square  box-kite,  Fig.  60,  is  square  in 
cross-section,  is  very  serviceable  for  flying,  and  is  convenient  for  carry- 
ing. It  is  usually  made  to  fold  up,  and  the  bridle  is  attached  to  one 
corner  piece  of  the  frame.  This  kite  flies  diagonally  in  the  air.  It  is 
quite  easy  to  attach  the  bridle  to  two  corner  sticks  of  the  frame,  when 
it  flies  horizontally,  Fig.  61.  Lining  cambric  is  good  for  covering  and 
some  bright  color  should  be  used;  but  some  prefer  a  good  wrapping 
paper.  Chinese  tissue  may  be  used  if  the  kite  is  not  too  large.  The 
corner  sticks  stand  diagonally  in  the  corners  of  the  kite  so  that  the 
notches  of  the  braces  can  fit  over  them,  see  Fig.  62.  The  drawing 

39 


40 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


Elttfof  -'Lone    corner  stick 


FIG.  59. 

FIGS.  60,  61. 

FIGS.  62,  63. 

FIGS.  64,   65,   66. 


BOX   KITES  41 

represents  the  end  of  the  kite,  with  the  corner  sticks  stretched  apart. 
Fig.  63  represents  a  part  of  one  of  the  braces.  String  and  glue  are 
used  back  of  the  notch  to  prevent  splitting  when  the  strain  is  put  on 
them  up  in  the  air.  The  braces  are  made  just  a  little  long  so  that  they 
bow  a  little  when  in  place,  and  this  stretches  the  cover  tight. 

A  word  about  getting  the  cover  on  the  corner  sticks  may  be  in  order. 
The  distance  around  the  kite  is  determined,  and  a  band  is  made  the 
right  width  and  the  right  length  to  reach  around  when  the  braces  are 
sprung  to  place.  Stretch  the  band  out  like  a  rubber  band,  Fig.  64,  and 
put  in  two  corner  sticks  at  a  and  b  that  have  previously  been  glued  on 
one  edge,  and  allowed  to  partially  dry  until  it  is  what  is  called  tacky. 
Now  the  band  at  the  other  end  should  also  be  glued  in  place  when  the 
progress  will  show  as  in  Fig.  65.  Remember  the  glue  is  only  on  the 
outer  edge  of  the  sticks.  Now  find  and  mark  the  exact  center  between 
the  sticks  glued  in  place  and  fold  to  these  two  lines,  and  glue  in  the  other 
two  sticks  in  a  similar  manner.  The  progress  made  will  be  as  shown 
in  Fig.  66.  When  the  glue  is  thoroly  dry,  the  kite  is  ready  for  the 
braces  and  for  flying.  The  braces  might  be  tied  together  where  they 
cross  each  other.  A  good  size  for  the  corner  sticks  is  TV/x-J"x36/'  with 
bands  10"  wide  and  64"  long,  plus  1"  additional  for  the  hem.  This 
will  give  16"  for  each  side.  Enough  will  be  needed  additional  in 
width  so  as  to  allow  a  \"  hem  for  each  side.  Each  band  then  will 
require  a  strip  of  cloth  or  paper  11"  wide  and  65"  long.  With  paper 
bands  the  \"  should  be  folded  over  and  a  string  should  be  glued  inside 
to  strengthen  the  edge.  The  braces  should  be  |"x£"x21£"  from  the 
bottom  of  one  notch  to  the  bottom  of  the  other,  see  Fig.  62. 

Rectangular  Kite.  The  next  is  the  rectangular  kite,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  67.  This  is  a  splendid  kite  of  its  kind  and  should  have  specific 
measurements.  The  two  center  pieces  called  the  spines  are  f'xf"  the 
corner  and  cross-pieces  f'xf".  The  bands  for  cells  are  21"  wide  by  18', 
with  1"  additional  for  the  seam.  The  edges  should  be  hemmed  as  in 
previous  kite.  The  framework  should  be  all  thoroly  wired  in  every 
direction  as  shown  by  drawing,  Fig.  68.  Little  wire  •  turnbuckles  such 
as  are  sold  by  firms  carrying  model  aeroplane  supplies  might  be  used, 
and  the  stretch  of  the  wires  could  be  taken  up  from  time  to  time.  A 


42 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


well  made  kite  will  last  a  long  time  if  it  has  good  care.  This  particular 
construction  is  for  large  kites  and  they  are  not  often  made  to  fold, 
altho  it  is  possible  to  make  them  so.  Out  of  the  box-kite  has  grown  the 
aeroplane.  Some  good  sizes  for  kites  are: 

Six-foot  kite:— 6'  long,  6'  wide,  3'  deep,  1'9"  width  of  cell, 

f  "xf"  corner-pieces,  2'6"  between  cells,  f "xg"  spines. 
Nine-foot  kite:— 9'  long,  9'  wide,  4'  deep,  2'6"  width  of  cell, 

f'xf"  corner-pieces,  4'  between  cells,  l"xl"  spines. 
Twelve-foot  kite:— 12'  long,  12'  wide,  6'  deep,  3'6"  width  of 
cell,  f"x£"  corner  pieces,  5'  between  cells,  I^"xl4/'  spines. 


FIG.  68. 


The  two  kites  just  described  may  be  modified  in  a  number  of  ways 
as  follows: — Two  square  kites  side  by  side  will  give  Fig.  69,  and  three 
side  by  side  Fig.  70;  these  might  be  increased  in  both  directions  until  a 


BOX   KITES 


43 


FIGS.  69,  70,  71,  72,  73,  74. 


44 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


FIGS.  75,  76,  77,  78,  79. 


BOX    KITES  45 


kite  like  Fig.  71  might  be  evolved.  But  there  is  no  great  gain  and  much 
hindrance  in  some  of  these  complications.  If  there  is  insufficient  room 
between  upper  and  lower  surface,  not  all  of  the  surface  is  exposed  and 
there  is  skin  friction,  again  if  there  is  not  space  enough  between  the 


FIG.  80.  FIG.  81.  FIG.  82.  FIG.  83. 

fore  and  back  cells,  the  front  cuts  off  the  air  pressure  to  some  extent 
on  the  back  cells.  So  Fig.  72  is  not  high  enough,  while  Fig.  73  has  the 
fore  and  back  cells  too  close  together.  Fig.  74  is  very  unstable  in  the  air. 
The  triangular  cross-section  has  the  advantage  of  a  bracing  frame- 
work and  is  easy  in  combination.  The  bridle  is  attached  to  one  of  the 
long  sticks  and  the  kite  rides  on  a  keel,  Fig.  75.  Three  braces  about 
the  middle  of  each  cell  keep  the  corner  sticks  out  to  place.  These  can 
be  put  in  at  the  field,  thus  allowing  the  kite  to  be  rolled  for  transporta- 
tion. The  triangular  kite  is  sometimes  lengthened  so  as  to  use  three 
cells,  Fig.  76,  and  again  two  kites  are  placed  side  by  side,  Fig.  77,  and 
this  may  be  increased  by  placing  another  below  both,  as  in  Fig.  78.  In 
the  last  combination  we  have  a  large  kite  to  the  outside  and  a  smaller 
one  to  the  inside  which  can  be  lengthened  so  as  to  give  three  cells  in 
length,  Fig.  79,  and  many  other  combinations  can  be  made. 

Tetrahedral  Kite.  Out  of  the  triangular  has  grown  the  celebrated 
Bell  tetrahedral  kites,  which  can  be  increased  in  size  beyond  that  of  any 
other  kite.  No  attempt  will  be  made  to  give  an  exhaustive  description 
or  full  construction  of  these  wonderful  kites  as  Dr.  Bell  has  written 
a  number  of  good  articles  on  the  subject  for  the  Scientific  American  and 
other  magazines.  There  have  been  some  wonderful  kites  made  on  this 
principle  of  construction.  In  simple  kites  of  this  construction  we  have 
a  large  tetrahedral  frame  composed  of  six  sticks,  Fig.  80.  -  Owing  to 
the  bracing  effect,  remarkably  small  material  can  be  used.  For  a  kite 
four  feet  to  an  edge,  -f$"  sticks  were  ample.  All  of  the  drawings  given 


46 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


here  represent  the  kite  resting  on  its  keel,  tho  a  kite  left  in  that 
position  would  topple  over  unless  supported  in  some  way.  Now  we 
will  divide  this  large  tetrahedral  horizontally  by  four  sticks,  Fig.  81, 
and  in  Fig.  82  strings  are  run  from  the  ends  of  the  four  horizontal 


FIG.  84. 


FIG.  85. 


sticks  to  the  middle  of  the  keel,  also  to  the  middle  of  the  upper  ridge 
stick.  Some  use  sticks  in  place  of  the  strings,  but  if  the  kite  is  not 
too  large  the  strings  are  as  good  and  in  small  kites  better.  Fig. 
83  shows  a  four-celled  tetrahedral  with  the  coverings  on.  Fig.  84 
shows  a  further  division  in  which  each  cell  of  Fig.  83  is  again  di- 
vided into  four  cells,  making  a  16-celled  kite.  The  kite  rides  in 
the  air  tipped  as  shown  in  Fig.  85.  Look  up  some  of  the  articles 
given  in  the  "Bibliography  of  Kites."  for  further  discussions  of  this  type. 
The  hexagonal  kite  is  also  an  outgrowth  of  the  triangular.  Looking 
at  the  end  of  a  hexagonal  kite,  three  brace  sticks  will  be  seen,  Fig.  86, 
which  can  be  made  removable,  thus  allowing  the  kite  and  its  covering 


BOX   KITES 


47 


to  be  rolled.    The  kite  will  be  more  stable  in  the  air  if  one  side  is  down, 
so  the  bridle  will  be  attached  to  two  of  the  long  sticks,  and  if  it  proves 

unmanageable,  at  four  points. 

The  circular  cross-sectioned  or 
barrel  kite  is  more  of  a  curiosity. 
It  has  two  cells,  and  the  frame  is 
made  up  of  four  circles,  either  of 
split  bamboo,  reed,  or  thin  tough 
wood.  The  circle  should  be  shaped 
before  further  construction  is  at- 
tempted. Most  of  the  strain  will 
come  on  the  circles  so  the  ribs, 
connecting  the  four  circles,  may  be 
quite  light  and  slender.  There  will 
be  less  danger  of  twisting  out  of 
shape  if  more  than  two  ribs  are 
used.  The  ribs  should  be  lashed 
to  the  rings  with  thread  or  twisted 
paper.  No  braces  are  necessary  in 
the  small  ones;  a  long  stick  slant- 
ing thru  the  entire  kite  may  be 
used  in  the  larger  ones,  see  Fig.  87, 
with  covering. 

A  pentagonal   frame  could   be 
constructed  with  three  braces,  Fig. 
88,   and   should   be   flown   in   the 
FIGS.  86,  87,  88.  position  shown. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
COMBINED  KITES. 

COMBINING   PLAIN   SURFACES  AND   BOX   KITES  TOGETHER. 

Straight  Extension  of  Surfaces.  One  of  the  most  efficient  and 
popular  kites  in  the  combined  construction  group  is  the  two  spined  tail- 
less, called  the  house  kite,  and  the  triangular  box-kite,  as  shown  by  Fig. 
89.  This  is  an  easy  kite  to  make  and  the  proportions  are  easy  to 
remember.  The  simplest  plan  is  shown  in  Fig.  90.  Three  sticks  of  the 
same  size  are  used;  say,  f"x£"x4^'.  The  horizontal  stick  is  lashed  to 
the  two  vertical  spines  down  one-third  the  distance  from  the  top,  in  this 
case  18".  The  two  spines  are  also  18"  apart,  which  leaves  the  extension 
of  the  horizontal  18"  to  each  side  of  spines.  Now  run  a  string  around 
the  outside  of  the  framework,  and  cover  as  in  Fig.  91.  The  two  cells 
are  now  built  over  the  two  spaces  between  the  spines.  There  need  not 
be  any  braces  for  these  cells,  but  another  stick  of  the  same  dimensions 
as  the  other  three  is  used  to  keep  the  keel  shaped  portion  in  place  when 
pulled  out  by  the  breeze.  The  whole  framework  can  be  built  rigid, 
using  two  short  braces  about 
the  middle  of  each  cell  out  to 
the  fourth  stick  or  keel  of 
kite;  the  best  way,  however, 
is  to  make  the  horizontal 
stick  removable  and  without 
the  short  braces  so  that  the 
kite  may  be  rolled  up.  Re- 
member there  are  only  four 
sticks  in  such  a  kite  and  they 

are  all  the  same  size.    This  FlG  89 

kite  is  sometimes  called  the 

"Coyne  Kite,"  again  the  "French  War  Kite,"  and  is  a  steady  flyer  and  a 
strong  puller.  The  bridle  can  be  adjusted  so  as  to  give  much  or  little  in- 
clination to  the  breeze.  For  lazy,  easy  gliding,  the  kite  would  be  adjusted 
Fig.  92,  or  with  the  lower  horizontal  shorter,  as  in  Fig.  93.  The  horizon- 

48 


COMBINED   KITES 


49 


tals  may  be  bowed  forward  and  also  backward.  We  have  had  all  sizes  of 
this  kite  at  the  tournaments.  Fig.  94  is  about  five  inches  tall,  while 
another  was  sixteen  feet  tall  and  required  quite  an  army  of  boys  to  pull 
it  up  in  the  air. 


\    % 


Opt  ix 


op 


FIGS.  90,  91,  92,  93. 

A  similar  combination  can  be  made  with  the  square  box-kite  on  the 
diagonal  with  straight  surfaces  out  to  each  side,  as  shown  in  Fig.  95. 
Besides  the  four  vertical  sticks,  there  are  four  horizontal  pieces  of  the 


50 


KITECRAFT    AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


so  as  to  be  nearer  horizontal.  This  kite  can  be  modified  by  a  lower  hori- 
zontal two-thirds  down  of  the  same  length  as  the  upper  horizontal,  as  in 
same  length  and  one  short  brace  placed  centrally  in  each  cell  to  keep 
the  fore  and  back  sticks  apart.  The  short  braces  can  be  notched  to  slip 
into  place  and  on  being  removed  will  let  the  kite  down  flat.  This 
kite  will  need  to  be  more  rigid  than  the  one  just  described.  A  hexagonal 
box-kite  could  be  made  with  side  wings  by  extending  one  of  the  braces 
at  each  end,  Fig.  96,  and  the  pentagonal  form  could  be  similarly 
modified.  Fig.  97  has  a  little  different  plan  of  extension  that  looks 
more  like  wings.  A  triangular  box-kite  is  used  as  the  main  structure 
to  build  on.  Three  long  sticks  are  required  with  four  short  braces  on 
each  side,  eight  in  all,  with  eight  wing  sticks,  four 
long  and  four  shorter,  that  are  attached  to  an  inner 
long  stick  of  the  box-like  portion  and  extend  across 
to  the  short  brace  of  the  opposite  side.  When  a  pair 
of  the  extension  sticks  are  fastened  to  place,  they  are 
lashed  together  at  their  crossing  point.  The  slant- 
ing extensions  are  strongly  built  and  add  poise  to 
the  kite. 

The  poise  of  a  rectangular  kite  may  be  increased 
by  the  addition  of  slant  extensions.  The  extension 
pieces  start  from  the  lower  corner  pieces,  pass  under 
the  upper  corner  pieces,  lashing  fast  at  both  places, 
Fig.  98.  If  a  little  variety  in  outline  is  desired,  split 
bamboo  or  reed  could  be  used  to  make  such  forms  as 
are  desired;  even  string  connections  can  be  made. 

In  making  hollow  form  objects  both  patience  and 
skill  are  necessary.     A  form  that  is  interesting  but 
not  representative  of  any  real  object   is  shown   in 
Fig.  99.    Another  is  the  arrow  kite,  Fig.  100.    The 
flying  bird   kite  should   make  a  good   problem   for 
some  ingenious  chap.     The  framework  and  string- 
ing is  shown  in  Fig.  101.    The  cross-section  of  the  body  of  the  bird  is 
about  the  shape  of  a  tailless  kite.     The  plan  gives  such  good  bracing 
construction  that  very  light  material  may  be  used.     Four  feet  would  be 


FIG.  94. 


COMBINED   KITES  51 


a  good  length  for  this  kite.    The  soaring  bird,  Fig.  102,  is  quite  similar 

in  construction  to  the  preceeding  kite.     The  body  is  never  square  in 

cross-section.     A  little  bow  is  given  to  the  tip  ends  of  the  wings.     The 

back  line  of  the  wing  changes  by 

means    of    an    extra    cord.      This 

kite  is  not  as  stable  as  "The  flying 

Bird." 

The  "flying  fish,"  Fig.  103, 
needs  vents,  as  the  whole  body  is 
a  box-kite.  Two  views  of  the 
framework  are  given;  a  center  FIG.  95. 

spine  runs  the  entire  length  of  the  fish  with  two  curves  at  the  mouth. 
The  mouth  is  left  open,  so  string  is  used  for  the  outline.  The  original 
kite  was  very  mechanically  made.  It  was  beyond  amateur  work  and 
showed  that  some  skilled  workman  had  assisted.  Much  can  be  done  with 
the  brush  to  make  this  a  very  interesting  kite.  Scales  can  be  painted  and 
the  fins  and  tail  lined  up.  Wherever  vents  are  placed,  there  should  be 
a  string  for  the  edge  of  the  paper  to  turn  over,  or  it  will  tear  out. 

The  "Clown  and  Donkey,"  Fig.  57,  is  the  combination  of  three 
tailless  kites,  and  is  what  is  known  as  a  compound  kite.  Fig.  104  is 
another  example  of  compounding.  Fig.  105  shows  a  star  kite  com- 
pounded together. 

Kites  in  Series.  A  boy  may  put  up  a  kite  about  five  hundred  feet, 
and  if  it  is  a  good  flyer,  tie  the  kite  line  fast  and  put  up  another  on 
perhaps  three  hundred  feet  of  string.  If  the  second  is  also  a  steady 
flyer  he  can  tie  the  end  of  that  kite  line  to  the  first  and  let  out  per- 
haps three  hundred  feet  more  of  the  first  line,  and  again  tie  it  fast. 
Another  kite  is  added  in  the  same  manner  as  the  second  and  so  on. 
The  best  flyers  of  the  series  should  be  placed  as  leaders.  Boys  have 
put  up  as  high  as  forty  kites  in  such  a  series,  and  no  one  has  any 
idea  of  the  beauty  of  such  a  series,  when  looking  up  from  the  stand- 
point of  the  flyer,  until  he  has  actually  seen  such  a  combination. 
Some  prefer  to  take  a  color  scheme  and  use  it  for  all  the  kites, 
others  prefer  a  great  variety  of  colors,  and  it  is  hard  to  tell  which 
is  the  most  pleasing.  Tailless  kites  are  used  more  than  any  other 


52 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


FIGS.  96,  97,  98,  99. 


COMBINED   KITES 


53 


for  such  purposes.  Fig.  106  shows  the  arrangement.  This  is  one 
of  the  best  schemes  for  high  flying.  The  first  kite  should  not  be  put 
out  to  the  limit  of  its  lifting  power  else  when  the  rest  of  the  string 


FIG.  100. 


FIG.  101. 

is  lifted  it  will  not  mount  up  higher.  It  should  have  considerable 
reserve  when  the  second  kite  is  attached.  For  high  flying,  the  kites 
should  be  placed  farther  apart,  and  the  first  part  of  the  line  should 
be  light  and  strong  and  the  thickness  increased  as  needed  for  strength 
of  the  combined  kites.  Kites  can  be  put  up  to  a  great  height  in  this 
way.  This  way  of  combining  kites  is  called  "Kites  in  Tandem." 


54 


KITECRAFT   AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


FIG.  103. 


COMBINED    KITES 


55 


Another  way  of  flying  kites  in  tandem  is  to  fasten  all  kites  di- 
rectly to  the  one  kite  line,  the  line  passing  thru  each  kite  after  the 
the  first.  This  method  however  requires  a  helper  for  each  kite  and 


FIG.  104. 


FIG.  105. 


they  are  placed  closer  together.  At  one  of  the  Los  Angeles  Tour- 
naments, two  boys  had  a  beautiful  team  of  green  and  white  kites 
arranged  in  the  second  series  of  tandem.  The  kites  were  of  the  tri- 
angular box  and  house  kite  order,  Fig.  89,  were  six  feet  and  nine 
feet  tall,  and  were  nine  in  number.  There  was  insufficient  breeze  to 
fly  them  well,  but  it  was  great  sport  for  thirty  or  forty  boys  to  run 
with  the  kite  line.  They  were  strong  enough  to  lift  up  a  large 
man.  The  heaviest  pull  that  was  registered  was  a  little  over  two 
hundred  pounds,  but  in  a  good  breeze  they  would  have  pulled  over 
four  hundred.  I  would  like  to  show  you  a  picture  of  them,  but  I 
failed  to  get  one. 

In  the  second  series  of  tandems,  while  all  kites  are  attached  to 
the  same  line  directly,  there  is  an  individual  bridle  for  each  kite,  but 
in  the  third  series  we  have  a  sort  of  harness  that  combines  all  kites 
together,  so  that  if  one  tips  forward,  all  tip  forward,  and  vice  versa. 
It  will  be  seen  that  in  Figs.  107  and  108  where  a  number  of  tailless 
kites  are  arranged  in  a  regular  series,  that  there  is  a  complete  har- 
ness running  from  the  larger  kite  as  a  head,  to  the  banner  floating 


56 


KITECRAFT   AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


FIG.  106. 


FlG.  107. 


COMBINED   KITES 


57 


out  at  the  rear.  Four  cords  are  attached,  one  at  the  top,  another 
at  the  bottom,  and  one  at  each  side.  The  distances  between  all  points 
are  the  same,  so  when  the  head  tips  forward,  the  second  kite  has  a 
similar  inclination  to  the  breeze,  and  so  on  thruout  the  whole  series. 


FIG.  108. 


The  bridle  is  attached  at  the  four  points  at  the  head,  so  attached  as 
to  give  a  good  flying  inclination.  This  series  is  called  a  "Tailless 
Dragon  Kite"  and  flies  well  and  makes  a  fine  appearance  in  the  air. 
The  tailless  dragon  can  be  made  more  ornamental  and  seem  more 


FIG.  109. 


connected,  by  extending  the  spine  above  the  kite  as  in  the  head,  a  string 
with  a  feather  edge  of  tissue  paper  being  festooned  from  the  top  of  one 
kite  in  the  series  to  the  next.  At  the  bottom  of  each  kite  some  streamers 
of  tissue  paper  would  help  in  the  same  manner,  Fig.  109.  The  regular 


COMBINED    KITES 


59 


Chinese  centipede  kite,  Fig.  110,  is  not  so  difficult  now  that  we  have 
harnessed  the  tailless  dragon. 

The  Chinese  say  there  should  never  be  more  than  three  strings  to 
bridle  or  harness;  this  bridle  has  two  strings  to  the  head  of  the  dra- 
gon, and  three  strings  to  the  harness.  The  harness  consists  of  the 
three  strings  running  from  one 
end  of  the  kite  to  the  other.  The 
Chinese  dragon  kite  usually,  if  not 
always,  has  circular  disks  for  the 
body  of  the  monster.  Fig.  Ill 
shows  a  beautiful  kite  hung  on  the 
wall  for  decorative  purposes  and 
shows  the  design  on  the  individual 
sections,  while  Fig.  112  shows  the 
same  kite  held  by  boys  on  the  lawn. 
The  lighter  portion  on  the  disk  is 
green  with  gilt  scales,  while  the 
darker  portion  is  scarlet.  The  head 
is  all  colors,  with  red  mouth,  white 

teeth,  eyes  that  revolve  with  little  mirrors  thereon  to  flash  the  sun- 
light. The  framework  for  the  head  is  shown  in  Fig.  113.  While  the 
framework  for  each  circular  disk,  Fig.  114,  is  just  a  band  of  bamboo, 
with  a  light  strip  of  bamboo  to  which 'the  peacock  feathers  are  attached 

as  balancers,  the  disks  are  covered 
with  Chinese  paper  and  decorated. 
The  disks  are  10"  and  the  balanc- 
er sticks  30".  The  feathers  are 
lashed  to  the  balancer  sticks.  The 
discs  are  12"  apart.  The  last  disc 
has  streamers  of  ribbon  or  tissue 
paper.  This  kite  flies  well  and  sways  about  like  an  immense  brightly 
colored  caterpillar  up  in  the  air. 

The  dragon  kite,  Fig.  115,  was  very  beautiful  and  flew  high  in 
the  air.  The  colors  were  pink  and  white.  Instead  of  feathers  for 
balancers,  tufts  of  tissue  paper  were  used.  A  special  balancer  was 


FIG.  113. 


FIG.  114. 


60 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


used  for  the  whole  kite  in  the  form  of  a  hollow  ball.  Small  reed  or 
bamboo  was  used  for  the  skeleton,  and  this  was  covered  with  tissue 
paper.  See  it  hanging  below  the  kites  head  in  the  picture.  The  various 
sections  are  covered  with  different  colored  papers.  The  heads  differ, 
but  otherwise  the  kites  are  quite  similar  in  construction. 


FIG.  115. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
DECORATION  OF  KITES. 

Kites  may  be  decorated  in  three  general  ways.  Piece  work  in  cover- 
ing; overlaying,  called  aplaca;  and  brush  work.  The  decoration  of 
kites  presents  some  unique  problems.  The  great  distances  at  which 
the  decorations  are  to  be  seen  force  a  study  of  the  carrying  qualities  of 
colors. 

The  star  kite  is  probably  the  best  for  decoration,  as  the  spacing 
falls  in  easier  relationships  than  some  of  the  other  forms.  In  the  kite 
shown  in  Fig.  116  the  covering  is  applied  so  as  to  give  a  decorative 
effect,  and  it  showed  up  splendidly  in  the  air.  The  colors  did  not 
stand  out  as  well  as  might  be  expected,  however,  and  while  high  in 
the  air  it  was  nearly  overlooked  by  the  judges.  When  brought  nearer 
it  received  the  first  prize.  Another  way  of  combining  colors  is  to 
make  one  half  one  color  and  the 
other  half  another,  giving  a  light 
and  shade  effect  to  each  point,  Fig. 
117. 

Fig.  37  shows  a  pleasing  ar- 
rangement of  spaces.  The  kite  is 
first  covered  with  the  body  color, 
then  the  bandings  are  put  on,  and 
lastly  the  spots.  A  banding  around 
the  outside  of  the  stars  in  the  tail 
is  effective  and  in  keeping.  Passe- 
partout is  excellent  for  banding  in 
some  places. 

The  five-pointed  star  kite,  Fig. 
38,  is  neat  and  artistic.  The 
framework  is  given  to  the 
left. 

The  Six-pointed  Star,  Fig.  118,  has  interesting  spaces  and  paths. 
The  wide  paths  running  to  the  center  are  divided  by  passe-partout. 
The  discs  at  the  points  are  in  keeping  with  the  large  one  at  the  center. 


FIG.  116. 


61 


62 


KITECRAFT    AND   KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


The  main  cover  was  in  two  tones  of  grey  green.  The  one  spine  and 
two  bowed  tailless  kite  gives  good  opportunity  for  decoration.  Fig. 
119  is  designed  as  a  banner  kite,  Fig.  120  a  conventionalized  bull  pup, 
and  Fig.  121  a  flower  form.  The  two  stick  tailless  kite  is  not  as 
easy  to  space  well  as  some  of  the  others,  yet  a  number  of  excellently 
decorated  kites  of  this  form  have  been  exhibitd.  Fig.  122  has  a  blue 
body  and  black  paths  with  gilt  over  the  black.  The  gilt  was  put  on 
by  hand.  Fig.  123  is  very  similar  in  design  but  with  light  paths  be- 
tween dark.  Fig.  124  has  a  red,  white  and  blue  combination  with 


L05 


FIG.  117. 


FIG.  119. 


black  paths  and*  .gilt  stripes  on  the  color  spaces.  In  Fig.  125  the  radi- 
ating lines  would  be  curved  in  the  air. 

The  Japanese  'square  kite,  Fig.  126,  is  like  a  canvas,  ready  for  a 
grotesque  figure,  a  beautiful  landscape,  or  a  conventional  design,  and 
many  of  these  have  been  very  artistically  decorated. 

For  box-kites  with  bands  as  a  part  of  their  construction,  the  band- 
ing designs  seem  more  consistent,  and  so  are  used  more.  See  Figs. 
127-133.  Fish,  bird,  butterfly,  boy,  man,  and  clown  kites  and  all 
forms  of  representative  kites  require  considerable  brush  work.  Fig.  134 
is  a  beautiful  brown  kite  all  decorated  with  the  brush.  The  school 
building  in  the  center  was  painted  with  water  colors.  The  fish  kite, 
Fig.  135,  is  all  hand  work.  Fig.  136  is  the  head  for  a  dragon  kite 


DECORATION   OF   KITES 


63 


and  should  have  considerable  fierceness.  Fig.  137  has  the  decorative 
feature  in  carefully  planned  lettering  which  possesses  a  good  space  filling 
quality. 

Some  very  satisfactory  results  are  obtained  by  using  good  colors,  say 
blue  and  black,  relieved  with  gilt.  Red  and  white  makes  a  pleasing 
combination,  also  red  and  black.  A  circle  divided  into  three  parts 


FIG.  118. 


FIG.  122. 


presents  a  little  problem  in  color  harmony  analysis.  There  are  three 
primary  colors:  red,  yellow,  and  blue.  We  may  use  blue  in  a  color 
.scheme.  Combining  the  other  two  colors,  red  and  yellow,  we  get 
orange.  Orange  is  called  the  complement  of  blue,  but  orange  is  too 
strong,  and  a  better  color  harmony  is  formed  by  the  addition  of  some 
of  the  third  color,  the  blue  to  the  orange,  which  will  give  a  brown. 
Now  brown  and  blue  make  a  better  color  harmony  than  orange  and 
blue.  So  it  runs,  two  primary  colors  give  a  secondary,  but  the  colors 
are  more  pleasing  when  subdued  with  the  third  color  or  by  the  addition 
of  grey  or  white.  Red  and  olive  will  need  dividing  paths  of  some 


64 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


FIGS.  123,  124,  125,  126. 


DECORATION   OF   KITES 


65 


66 


KITECRAFT   AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


DECORATION    OF   KITES 


67 


strong  color,  black  or  white.  When  gilt  is  used  it  must  be  edged  with 
black  or  some  very  dark  color  or  it  loses  its  effectiveness.  While 
orange  is  too  strong  for  combination  with  blue,  it  is  good  with  black. 
When  yellow  is  used  with  the  purples  it  should  be  a  modest  yellow. 


FIG.  134. 


FIG.  135. 


Just  as  in  landscape  where  the  highlights  are  warm  colors,  we 
seek  a  cool  color  for  shadows,  and  vice  versa,  so  with  color  combination 
we  strike  across  the  color  circle  and  choose  a  warm  and  cool  color  for 
balance.  Some  of  the  analogous  hues  are  very  pleasing,  but  unless 
quite  a  little  variation  of  color  is  used,  the  design  soon  loses  out  in  the 
distance.  Browns,  greens,  reds,  blues,  etc.,  may  be  used  in  their  indi- 
vidual color  schemes,  but  the  throwing  in  of  some  opposite  color  has 
a  spicing  up  effect  that  is  helpful.  A  dark  brown,  medium  brown,  a 
dull  yellow,  and  a  light  but  not  brilliant  yellow,  give  a  good  combi- 
nation. Some  color  schemes  that  are  very  beautiful  for  rugs  and  in- 
terior decoration  do  not  carry  far  enough  to  be  used  on  a  kite.  Some 
very  brilliant  colors  that  might  shock  us  close  by,  are  charming  when 
far  up  in  the  air. 


68 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


But  this  is  not  a  treatise  on  color  work,  and  the  subject  is  so  great, 
that  we  must  leave  it  here.  Sometimes  striped  effects  are  made  with 
gummed  papers  similar  to  passe-partout.  The  little  mirrors  mentioned 
are  such  as  are  used  on  gowns  and  draperies.  They  are  set  in  little 


FIG.  136. 


FIG.  137. 


rims  of  light  brass  and  with  a  good  allowance  of  paste  may  be  stuck 
sufficiently  well  to  any  portion  of  the  kite  to  hold  during  a  tourna- 
ment. The  mirrors  might  be  found  at  Chinese  stores.  Whirling  de- 
vices, to  be  treated  in  a  following  chapter,  may  also  be  used  for  orna- 
mentation. Tassels,  streamers,  and  banners  all  serve  a  purpose  of  artis- 
tic makeup  when  properly  used. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
MESSENGERS. 

All  are  more  or  less  familiar  with  the  piece  of  paper  with  a  hole  in 
it  that  is  slipped  over  the  string  of  a  kite  high  in  the  air.  The  wind 
catches  it  and  whirls  it  along,  until  it  finally  reaches  its  destination, 
the  kite.  Sometimes  urgent  business  demands  several  communica- 
tions to  the  kite,  so  several  pieces  of  paper  are  seen  whirling  at  various 
distances  from  the  boy,  making  their  way,  now  slowly,  now  faster,  over- 
taking, falling  behind  and  so  on  until  they  fulfill  their  mission.  Such  is 
the  usual  kite  messenger. 

A  clever  little  messenger  was  described  by  Nungent  in  St. 
Nicholas,  for  October,  1900.  This  has  been  modified  and  used  at  a 
number  of  kite  tournaments.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  little  yacht,  and 
has  a  beam  on  which  is  attached  two  pulleys  under  which  the  kite 
line  runs,  a  mast  that  carries  the  sail  and  that  also  extends  downward 
thru  the  hull  to  carry  a  weight  that  holds  the  yacht  upright.  The 
mast  slants  backward  a  little  so  as  to  brace  against  the  pull  of  the 
sail.  The  sail  is  held  up  by  a  string  that  is  attached  to  an  easy  trip, 
and  when  released  the  sail  drops  and  the  yacht  returns  down  the  kite 
line  to  the  operator  by  gravity.  Fig.  138 
shows  a  complete  model  with  sail  up  as 
it  appears  on  the  up  trip.  Fig.  139 
shows  the  various  parts :  the  beam,  a,  is 
made  of  a  light  wood,  -j"x$"x!5",  por- 
tions are  cut  away  to  reduce  weight; 
the  mast  b,  is  round,  \"  in  diameter 
at  bottom,  tapering  to  a  point  at  the  top, 
is  29$"  long,  9"  below  the  beam  and  20" 
above;  the  mast  is  lashed  to  the  side  p,G 

of  the  beam ;  c  and,  d    are    yard    arms 

c  being  16"  and  d  14"  long  and  both  about  i"  to  T\"  thru; 
c  is  lashed  above  the  beam,  and  d  is  hung  by  a  thread  15" 
higher  up.  A  thread  is  run  from  each  end  of  both  yard  arms  to 
the  top  of  the  metal  loop  supporting  the  back  pulley  wheel.  The 

69 


70 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


threads  are  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  twisting  of  the  sail.  The 
sail  is  of  some  light  soft  material  that  is  very  pliable  in  the  breeze. 
Some  use  silk,  others  soft  cotton,  and  some  paper.  I  used  a  Chinese 


Li HC 


'/?        FIG.  139. 

tissue  paper  sail  and  found  it  very  satisfactory;    it  lasted  several  sea- 
sons.    The  strong  way  of  the  paper  should  be  put  on  up  and  down. 

El. 


FIG.  140. 


FIG.  141. 


FIG.  142. 

The  sail  is  pasted  or  sewed  to  the  yard  arms.  The  sail  line  is  a 
piece  of  linen  thread  that  is  fastened  to  the  middle  of  the  upper  yard 
arm,  passing  thru  a  loop  made  of  small  wire,  «,  which  is  lashed  to 


MESSENGERS  71 


the  mast,  see  Fig.  140.  The  line  then  passes  to  the  eye  of  the  wire 
forming  the  trip  on  the  side  of  the  beam,  see  Fig.  141.  t  is  a  small 
nail  in  the  side  of  the  beam  a;  m  is  a  long  slim  wire  nail  with  an 
eye  bent  at  the  top  and  two  bends  at  right  angles  about  half  way 
down.  A  piece  of  small  spring  brass  wire  will  do  as  well  as  the 
slim  nail.  A  small  round  wooden  stick,  e,  not  larger  than  \"  at  the 
largest  end  and  about  14"  long  lies  loosely  in  the  screw-eyes,  r  and  s, 
under  the  beam.  The  end  of  the  hook  that  the  sail  line  is  fastened  to 


FIG.  144.  FIG.  145.  FIG.  143. 

passes  down  thru  a  small  hole  in  the  end  of  the  small  stick  e.  A 
weight,  p,  is  secured  to  the  lower  end  of  the  mast  to  prevent  over- 
turning of  the  yacht,  and  a  piece  of  light  cardboard  is  used  for  the 
hull. 

The  pulley  wheels  can  be  turned  on  a  lathe  or  small  metal  ones, 
especially  aluminum  can  be  used.  Strips  of  tin  make  good  frames  for 
the  wheels,  and  are  attached  to  both  sides  of  the  beams.  If  wooden 
wheels  are  used,  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  holes  are  in  the 
center.  Wire  nails  make  good  axles.  The  kite  line  is  liable  to  jump 


72 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


out  the  grooves  of  the  wheels,  so  small  screw-eyes  placed  in  the  beam 
just  in  front  and  behind  each  wheel  will  keep  the  kite  line  in  place. 
It  may  be  an  advantage  to  press  the  eye  together  some  so  as  to  make 
an  elongated  hole,  Fig.  142.  Some  care  will  be  necessary  to  see  that 
the  screw-eyes  are  screwed  in  just  the  right  distance  so  as  to  prevent 
the  string  from  resting  on  the  screweyes  instead  of  the  grooved  wheels. 
The  Release.  The  sail  is  tripped  by  the  stick,  e,  being  pushed 


FIG.  146.  FIG.  147. 

against  an  obstruction  of  cardboard  fastened  perhaps  three  hundred 
feet  from  the  kite,  see  Fig.  143.  The  reason  for  placing  it  away 
from  the  kite  is  that  when  the  weight  comes  on  the  kite  line,  the  last 
part  of  the  trip  is  very  steep;  by  placing  the  obstruction  some  distance 
from  the  kite  this  difficulty  is  largely  overcome. 

As  a  final  warning,  the  sail  line  should  just  be  tight  enough  to- 
hold  the  sail  in  place  while  going  up  and  not  tight  enough  to  prevent 
easy  tripping  when  e  touches  the  obstruction  disk.  Some  put  on  elastic: 


MESSENGERS  73 

bands  to  pull  the  sail  down  quickly  when  it  is  tripped.  The  nearer 
the  sail  can  float  out  straight  behind  on  the  return  trip,  the  less  resis- 
tance there  will  be  to  the  breeze.  Some  even  go  so  far  as  to  have 
a  little  rolling  up  device  for  the  sail.  A  thread  should  be  attached 
to  the  beam  and  to  the  little  rod  e  to  prevent  its  falling  out  on  the 
down  trip. 

The  Chinese  and  Japanese  sometimes  have  little  messengers  that 
are  released  when  a  punk  burns  down  so  as  to  burn  off  a  supporting 
thread.  This  might  be  applied  to  parachutes  too.  Another  good  de- 
vice but  which  is  not  self-propelling  on  the  upward  trip  is  the  trolley 
car,  Fig.  144.  The  car  is  pulled  up  the  kite  line  to  a  trip,  when  it  is 
released  and  returns  by  gravity.  The  pulley  block  is  tied  into  the 
kite  line,  Fig.  145.  The  line  below  the  block  passes  thru  the  car  under 
a  little  roller  on  the  inside  of  the  car  at  each  end.  The  car  can  be 
made  up  of  any  light  material,  but  need  not  be  as  light  as  self  propelled 
devices,  the  weight  being  an  advantage  on  the  downward  run.  The 
line  that  pulls  the  car  up  passes  around  the  grooved  pulley,  thru  the 
guides  in  the  pulley  block  and  one  end  goes  to  the  car  while  the  other 
goes  to  the  operator.  A  release  is  necessary,  and  perhaps  a  little  sharp 
blade  like  a  safety  razor  blade  will  be  as  effective  as  any,  Fig.  146. 
In  Fig.  147  another  trip  is  shown  in  which  a  wire  is  bent,  as  at  a. 
This  wire  passes  up  thru  the  upper  portion  of  the  roof  at  b,  and  passes 
thru  screw-eyes  c  and  d;  d  is  bent  forward.  The  lowTer  portion  of 
the  wire  as  represented  is  much  longer  than  the  upper,  and  when  it 
touches  the  pulley  block  is  pushed  back,  and  the  shorter  portion  is  pushed 
back  of  screw-eye  d,  which  releases  the  small  ring,  e,  to  which  the  pulling 
line  to  the  operator  is  attached,  and  also  sets  free  the  car  to  run  down 
the  kite  line.  This  last  is  not  a  difficult  attachment  and  seems  a  little 
more  scientifically  mechanical. 

There  are  other  ways  of  effecting  the  release.  A  good  pulling 
kite  is  necessary,  as  in  the  excitement  of  pulling  up  the  car,  more 
strain  is  put  on  the  kite  than  one  would  realize.  If  a  race  is  on, 
a  fishing  reel  would  be  an  advantage.  This  last  messenger  is  not 
limited  to  the  street  car,  but  the  form  might  be  a  locomotive  and 
train,  an  automobile  or  an  air  ship.  The  latter  might  have  adjustable 


74  KITECRAFT    AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 

wings  so  as  to  be  open  to  the  breeze  on  the  up  trip  and  so  be  self 
propelling  as  in  the  yacht,  and  by  releasing  that  which  holds  the  wings 
open,  they  will  close  up,  and  the  messenger  would  be  ready  for  the 
down  trip.  In  the  messenger  races,  it  is  necessary  to  measure  the 
string.  At  a  tournament  it  is  necessary  to  do  this  beforehand.  It 
is  not  necessary,  but  more  interesting,  to  have  all  the  contestants  oper- 
ating at  the  same  time.  In  case  all  cannot  operate  together,  each 
can  be  timed.  Some  very  comical  devices  might  be  devised  as  messen- 
gers, not  so  much  for  speed  as  for  amusement.  Certain  motions  might 
be  developed  that  would  add  much  to  the  entertainment  of  all. 


CHAPTER  IX. 
MOVING  DEVICES. 

Most  of  the  moving  devices  on  kites  are  operated  best  by  means 
of  windmills.  The  windmill  can  be  placed  back  of  the  kite  out  of 
sight.  Various  movements  can  be  devised  such  as  opening  and  shutting 
of  eyes  and  mouth  and  moving  of  ears.  Feet  and  hands  can  be  made 
to  dangle  without  any  device.  The  windmill  can  also  be  used  for 
decorative  purposes. 

Windmills.  There  are  two  general  kinds  of  windmills.  Those 
turning  from  left  to  right  and  vice  versa,  and  those  turning  fore  and 
back.  The  last  named  type  is  used  for  eyes  that  turn.  The  eyes  are 
set  in  little  rims  of  some  stiff  material,  a  thin  piece  of  bamboo,  shav- 
ing, or  stiff  cardboard.  Holes  are  cut  in  the  covering  of  the  kite  and 
these  rims  are  pasted  in  so  as  to  stand  edgewise.  These  rims  prevent 
the  interference  of  any  obstruction  to  the  revolving  eyes.  The  eye 
may  be  set  in  place  by  means  of  a  wire  running  thru  each  side  of  the 
rim  and  thru  the  eye.  The  eye  has  a  smaller  rim  on  which  two  half 
circles  of  paper  are  pasted,  see  Fig.  148.  A  little  paper  wound  into 
a  little  ball  would  be  made  by  the  Chinese  boys,  but  a  glass  bead  will 
answer  to  keep  the  eye  away  from  the  rim  of  the  opening.  The  two 
semicircles  of  paper  are  on  the  two  halves  of  the  eye.  In  Fig.  148, 
a  is  on  the  upper  half  of  the  front  side  while  the  other  semicircle,  b, 
is  on  the  lower  half  of  the  back.  Sometimes  little  mirrors  are  pasted 
to  the  eyes,  as  at  m,  to  reflect  the  light  as  they  spin  around,  which  they 
certainly  do,  if  nicely  set  in  their  places.  Some 
use  considerable  black  on  one  half  and  white 
on  the  other,  giving  a  blinking  effect.  This  same 
kind  of  revolving  disk  is  sometimes  used  on 
wires  or  cord  to  the  outside  of  the  kite,  see  Fig. 
134. 

The  revolving  device,  while  not  as  familiar  as  our  little  windmills, 
is  more  easily  secured  in  position  but  it  is  not  impossible  and  in  fact 
is  not  a  very  difficult  task  to  fasten  the  windmills.  The  windmills 
can  be  made  of  stiff  paper,  any  stiff  cover  paper  will  do;  they  spin 

75 


76 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


well  and  are  very  light.  They  are  usually  made  of  a  square  piece 
of  paper  which  is  cut  on  the  diagonal  nearly  to  the  center,  Fig.  149; 
one  of  the  points  of  each  section  is  then  brought  a  little  past  the  cen- 
ter and  a  pin  pushed  thru,  Fig.  150.  These  little  whirligigs  can  be 
attached  with  the  pin  to  the  framework  of  the  kite  at  various  places. 


FIG.  149. 


FIG.  ISO. 


Larger  mills  can  be  made  of  stiffer  paper,  as  bristol  board,  but  the 
larger  sizes  will  need  more  anchorage.  The  wheel  will  need  an  axle 
of  wire  and  to  secure  it,  a  paper,  perhaps  several,  will  need  to  be 
pasted  to  the  wheel  and  on  the  wire  to  prevent  its  flopping  over. 
The  wheels  are  made  from  a  cir- 
cular piece  and  are  slitted  from  the 
circumference  to  near  to  the  cen- 
ter and  the  sections  are  curved  by 
drawing  the  paper  over  a  pencil  or 
similar  object  until  the  right  cur- 
vature is  obtained,  Fig.  151.  All 
the  sections  of  a  wheel  are  curved 
the  same  way  but  where  there  are 
more  than  one,  part  should  turn 
to  the  right  and  the  others  to  the 
left.  The  framework  supporting 
the  axle  should  reach  across  the 
opening  and  there  should  be  a  strip 
on  each  side  as  shown  in  Fig.  152.  FIG.  151.  FIG.  152. 


d 


Sup  port 


MOVING   DEVICES  77 


If  the  fans  will  not  remain  curved,  a  wire  can  be  run  around  the  outer 
edge,  thus  keeping  the  fans  in  place  and  at  the  proper  angle.  Other 
windmills  are  made  with  wooden  axles  that  have  little  diagonal  cuts  to 
receive  pieces  of  thin  stiff  cardboard  as  fans.  These  can  usually  be 
purchased,  but  they  can  also  be  made;  Fig.  153,  has  one  fan  removed. 
Make  a  small  block  and  with  small  saw,  make  little  cuts  on  the  diagonal 
and  set  the  fans  in  with  glue.  Some  make  little  windmills  of  aluminum, 
which  are  similar  to  the  ones  made  of  light  cardboard.  Windmills  can 
be  applied  in  many  ways ;  for  example,  they  may  represent  wheels  on  an 
automobile  kite,  Fig.  154,  in  which  the  tires  are  large  and  the  windmill 
serves  as  the  center  of  the  wheel.  When  turning  around  it  cannot 
be  seen  that  the  tire  is  not  turning.  Another  wheel  is  shown  at  a 
in  which  small  slanting  fans  are  attached. 

The  most  difficult  part  in  making  the  auto  kite 
is  to  keep  it  light  and  in  poise.     It  will  readily  be 
seen   that  the  automobile  is   a  triangular  box-kite. 
The  hood  of  the  engine  should  be  open  at  both  ends, 
with  string  across  to  represent  screen      The  hood 
instead  of  being  a  dead  weight  will  have  considerable 
lifting  power,  being  part  of  a  barrel  kite.    A  framework  is  shown  in  Fig. 
155.     The  top  of  the  auto  might  be  black  or  tan,  the  body  red,  black, 
grey,  green  or  brown,  the  tires  light  tan,  and  the  moving  part  of  the 
wheels  light  yellow. 

The  steamboat  kite,  Figs.  156  and  157,  is  another  application  of 
the  moving  wheel  but  this  construction  is  simpler  and  the  attachment 
of  wheel  is  better.  In  this  model  a  part  of  the  wheel  is  shielded  from 
the  breeze,  so  the  uneven  pressure  causes  it  to  revolve.  This  is  a 
very  feasible  and  interesting  problem.  Fig.  158  shows  a  kite  with  a 
wagging  head  above  it.  When  we  understand  this  device,  we  should 
be  able  to  plan  many  others.  The  windmill  is  set  in  the  open  part  of 
the  kite.  Two  cross-sticks  are  used  so  it  is  quite  easy  to  attach  a 
vertical  piece  to  the  two  for  support  of  the  aluminum  wheel.  A  little 
hub  has  a  groove  in  it  that  a  cord  belt  runs  in,  and  from  that  to  another 
grooved  wheel  to  the  back  of  the  kife  Fig.  159.  A  lath  nail  cut  off 
for  a  small  crank  pin,  j,  is  located  near  the  outer  edge  of  this  grooved 


78 


KITECRAFT   AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


FIGS.    154,    155. 


MOVING  DEVICES 


79 


wi  •m-rrmvr-nnrr 


m"rf 


/    *      "    f   '     '   /77TTTi7ulrTT7rrm|tTirn777Ti([TTTTri7 


FIGS.    156,   157. 


Fie.  158. 


80 


KITECRAFT    AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


wheel.  A  vertical  lever,  h,  with  axis  at  i,  has  an  elongated  hole  at 
the  lower  end  that  works  over  the  crank-pin  and  as  k  revolves,  the 
lever  operates  from  side  to  side.  The  hole  must  be  long  enough  for 
the  crank-pin  to  reach  its  highest  and  lowest  point  easily.  The  elon- 
gated hole  can  be  effected  by  extending  a  wire  loop  down  from  the 
end  of  the  vertical  lever  to  work  on  the  crank-pin.  The  wire  should 
be  lashed  with  linen  thread  to  the  vertical  lever  and  coated  over  with 
glue.  An  object  can  be  used  on  the  upper  end,  such  as  a  head,  a  flag, 
etc.  In  the  same  manner,  hands  and  feet  may  be  extended  and  with- 
drawn, a  turtle  might  be  made  to  draw  in  head  and  feet  and  many 
other  interesting  operations,  but  in  all  of  these  the  machinery  must 
work  easily,  must  not  lop  over  against  anything  else  and  above  all 
we  must  remember  not  to  load  down  our  kite  with  weight  or  over- 
balance it  with  undue  leverage  at  any  part  of  the  kite. 

Another  way  of  attaching  to  windmill  is  to  make  the  wire  axle 
long  enough  to  pass  thru  and  at  the  back  bend  into  a  crank,  Fig.  160. 


FIG.  159.  FIG.  160.  FIG.  161. 

The  lever  h  would  work  direct  on  this  crank  as  it  does  on  the  crank- 
pin  in  the  device  with  the  second  grooved  pulley,  k,  Fig.  159.  To 
make  the  head  go  up  and  down,  use  a  round  hole  instead  of  the  elon- 
gated ones  in  the  vertical  shaft.  A  loop  of  wire,  Fig.  161,  should 


MOVING  DEVICES  81 


hold  the  upper  part  of  the  vertical  lever  in  place,  and  in  case  of  the 
head  bobbing  up  and  down,  the  lever  is  not  attached  at  i,  Fig.  159, 
but  the  loop,  Fig.  161,  must  not  be  omitted. 

Other  Devices.  But  windmills  are  not  the  only  means  of  ope- 
rating moving  parts  of  a  kite.  An  extra  line  to  the  ground  will  give 
opportunity  to  the  kite  flyer  to  open  and  shut  eyes  and  mouth  and 
move  ears  at  will.  Ears  could  be  made  to  grow  a  foot  and  then  be 
drawn  back  by  light  elastic  bands.  The  mouth  might  open  and  a 
red  tongue  run  out,  or  a  pocket  in  the  mouth  might  be  turned  inside 
out,  thus  releasing  a  shower  of  bits  of  paper,  white,  colored,  gilt,  and 
silver.  Let  the  imagination  play  for  a  time,  then  set  the  inventive 
machinery  of  the  brain  to  work  and  "watch  us  grow." 


CHAPTER  X 
SUSPENDED  FIGURES  AND  APPLIANCES. 

These  devices  are  usually  suspended  from  the  kite  line.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  have  enough  suspension  cords  attached  to  prevent  twisting  up 
with  the  main  line.  Most  of  the  devices  will  float  out  and  have  some 
lifting  power  of  their  own,  but  some  will  require  a  kite  that  can  sus- 
tain some  weight,  in  some  cases  a  pound  or  more. 

Flags  and  Banners.  One  of  the  prettiest  attachments  is  the 
American  flag.  This  can  be  attached  in  two  ways:  first  by  means 
of  a  vertical  stick  of  some  weight,  Fig.  162,  and  second  by  using  the 
horizontal  stick,  as  in  Fig.  163.  A  pleasing  trick  is  to  have  the  flag 
folded  (do  not  wind  on  the  stick)  and  covered,  tied  loosely  with  bow- 
knots  that  are  easily  untied,  and  when  the  flag  is  well  up,  the  tripping 
string  is  pulled  and  the  flag  released.  The  string  of  the  bow-knot 


fc. 


FIG.  163. 


FIG.  162. 


passes  down  the  kite  line  thru  little  loops  of  wire  attached  to  the  main 
line  to  prevent  the  tripping  string  from  getting  twisted  therein.  If 
two  are  operating,  one  can  stand  at  a  little  distance  so  as  not  to  get 
the  two  strings  twisted,  and  thus  avoid  the  wire  loops. 


82 


SUSPENDED   FIGURES   AND  APPLIANCES 


83 


FIGS.  164,  165,  166,  167. 


84 


KITECRAFT    AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


Banners  are  used  sometimes  for  schools,  sometimes  for  advertising 
and  sometimes  for  just  no  particular  purpose  but  the  pleasure  of  doing 
it.  A  few  banners  are  shown:  Fig.  164  represents  the  Grand  Ave- 
nue School,  Fig.  165  the  Hobart  Boulevard  School,  Fig.  166,  Vermont 


NjJ-  ^! 


Fia  168. 

Avenue,  and  Fig.  167,  the  Tenth  Street  School.    Fig.  168  shows  how 
the  banners  are  attached. 

Wireless  Telegraphy.    The  wireless  has  a  great  attraction  for 
most  boys.     Some  attach  antennae  to  the  kite,  others  drop  a  number 


SUSPENDED   FIGURES   AND  APPLIANCES 


85 


of  wires  from  the  kite  line,  as  in  Fig.  169.  A  stick  is  suspended  simi- 
lar to  a  banner,  except  that  it  requires  only  two  suspension  cords; 
another  stick  hangs  by  the  wires  about  ten  feet  below,  and  below  this 
the  wires  come  together  and  a  wire  follows  the  kite  line  to  the  receiver 
and  to  the  ground.  Caution  is  here  given  against  the  use  of  a  wire 
kite  line.  One  boy  tried  this  and  when  the  kite  lowered  in  a  lull  of 
the  breeze  the  wire  crossed  the  trolley  line  and  in  the  mix-up  the  boy 
became  entangeld  in  the  line  by  at- 
tempting to  get  his  kite  up  again, 
and  received  quite  a  shock;  but 
there  was  no  serious  results.  His 
instrument  and  attachments  were 
working  splendidly.  The  winding 
of  the  coil  is  a  very  good  problem 
for  any  boy. 

Photography.  Some  boys  are 
interested  in  photography,  and  the 
kite  gives  opportunity  for  taking 
bird's-eye  views.  The  kodak  must 
rest  on  a  framework  and  the  trip- 
ping line  be  so  attached  as  not  to 
cause  the  instrument  to  swing  when 
the  shutter  is  snapped.  The  trip- 
ping can  be  accommodated  by 
means  of  the  rear  suspension  cord, 
Fig.  170.  The  shutter  should  trip 
very  easily  so  as  to  cause  as  little 
swinging  as  possible.  An  extension 
of  the  lever  might  be  an  advantage.  The  two  sticks  of  the  framework 
should  be  halved  together  so  as  to  bring  the  upper  surfaces  level.  A 
screw-eye  placed  in  the  cross-stick  directly  below  the  tripping  lever  holds 
the  tripping  string  so  that  it  draws  on  the  camera  in  line  with  its  own 
seating  on  the  framework,  and  causes  the  minimum  amount  of  swaying. 
Figs.  171  and  172  were  taken  on  a  kite  line  that  was  sent  up  from  the 
Y;  M.  C.  A.  building.  The  speck  of  white  shown  on  the  roof  near  the 


FIG.  169. 


86 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


ventilator  is  the  operator.     Figs.  173  and  174  were  taken  by  a  twelve 
year  old  boy  and  while  not  as  high  as  the  first  is  a  very  good  start. 

Signaling.     Signaling  can  be  done  by  means  of  a  red  and  white 
flag,  and  the  code  used  by  the  wig  wag  system,  or  one  similar  can  be  used. 


FIG.  170. 

Fig.  175  shows  the  rod  on  which  the  two  signals  are  used.  Screw-eyes 
would  be  better  than  pulley  wheels  as  there  would  be  no  slipping  out 
of  the  grooves,  and  there  would  not  be  enough  friction  to  be  objec- 
tionable. The  cord  operating  the  two  signals  should  be  continuous, 
passing  from  the  ground  to  one  signal,  thru  the  screw-eye  above,  then 
thru  the  other  screw-eye  to  the  second  signal  and  from  that  back  to 
the  ground.  The  distance  from  the  signal  to  the  screw-eye  should  be 
convenient  for  manipulation  by  the  operator,  for  while  one  flag  is  up 
the  other  is  down,  and  this  distance  corresponds  to  the  pull  and  re- 


SUSPENDED    FIGURES   AND   APPLIANCES 


87 


laxatin  of  the  hands  of  the  operator.  The  signals  can  be  red  and 
white  flags,  or  a  device  like  Fig.  176,  in  which  a  full  surface  of  color 
would  always  be  in  view.  Sometimes  a  flag  flying  directly  toward 


FIG.  171. 


FIG.  172. 


or  away  from  you  is  not  a  very  large  object  to  see.  This  last  device 
is  made  of  two  good  sized  cardboard  disks,  each  cut  half  way  thru, 
Fig.  177,  and  set  at  right  angles  to  each  other.  The  red  and  white 


FIG.  173. 


FIG.  174. 


is  placed  there  to  help  in  location  of  the  other  signals,  as  to  up  and 
would  read,  red  and  light,  that  is  r  is  red  or  right,  while  /  is  left  or 
light.  So  the  same  code  operates  for  both.  The  center  black  square 


88 


KITECRAFT   AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


down  and  right  and  left.  The  code  given  is  one  that  we  have  used 
somewhat,  but  not  many  have  mastered  it  as  yet.  It  can  be  used  for 
night  signalling,  as  red  and  white  or  light,  would  read  r  and  /  too. 

We  will  illustrate  with  the  letter  b.  The  code  reads  L  R  R  L. 
At  night  this  would  be  flashed:  light,  then  red,  red  again,  then  light. 
On  the  kite  signal  we  would  run  up  the  light  signal,  then  the  red, 


FIG.  175. 


FIGS.  176,  177. 


red  again,  and  then  the  light.  Just  so  with  the  wigwag.  The  wig 
wag  flag  would  be  waved  to  left  then  two  to  the  right  then  one  to 
the  left  and  back  again  to  center.  If  we  were  spelling  out  BOY, 
a  little  pause  would  be  made  after  B  had  been  signalled,  then  left, 
right,  or  light,  red  would  be  signalled,  and  after  a  slight  pause  again, 
the  three  reds  or  three  waves  of  the  wig  wag  flag  to  the  right.  A 
little  longer  pause  between  words  and  then  the  next  word  would  follow. 


SUSPENDED   FIGURES  AND  APPLIANCES 


89 


A 

LL 

J 

LLRR 

S 

LRL 

2 

LLLL 

B 

LRRL 

K 

LRLR 

T 

L 

3 

RRRL 

C 

RLR 

L 

LLR 

U 

RRL 

4 

LLLR 

D 

LLL 

M 

RLLR 

V 

RLLL 

5 

RRLL 

E 

RL 

N 

RR 

W 

RRLR 

6 

LLRR 

F 

LLLR 

0 

LR 

X 

LRLL 

7 

RLLL 

G 

RRLL 

P 

RLRL 

Y 

RRR 

8 

LRRR 

H 

RLL 

Q 

RLRR 

Z 

LLLL 

9 

RLLR 

I 

R 

R 

LRR 

1 

RRRR 

0 

LR 

Swings.  A  swing  can  be  attached  to  the  kite  line  by  six  suspension 
cords,  Fig.  178.  The  boy  in  overalls  is  a  pleasing  figure,  Fig.  179. 
The  framework  is  of  light  kite  sticks  and  the  figure  is  cut  out  of 
light  cardboard,  but  must  be  reinforced  with  light  sticks  across  the 
body  to  prevent  collapse.  A  stick  across  back  of  the  arms  and  two 
down  the  legs  from  this  will  be  sufficient.  The  sunbonnet  baby  is 
good,  Fig.  180.  The  sunbonnet  in  white  and  the  dress  red  with  pink 
slippers  is  effective. 

The  trapeze  performer,  Fig.  181,  must  be  placed  edgewise  in  the 
swing,  and  the  lower  stick  must  be  made  so  it  will  revolve.  The 
grooved  pulley  is  stationary  on  the  lower  rod  and  should  have  a  good 
sized  grove  so  as  to  accommodate  two  or  three  turns  of  the  operating 
line,  which  should  run  double  to  the  ground.  It  is  well  to  have  such 
lines  fastened  to  a  stick  so  that  the  hand  may  hold  in  the  center  between 
the  two,  see  Fig.  182.  By  a  twist  of  the  wrist  the  ends  of  the  stick 
can  be  forced  to  and  fro  which  turns  the  rod  that  the  performer  is 
on,  forward  or  back.  This  will  suggest  other  forms  of  trapeze  per- 
formers. 

Color  devices  and  optical  illusions  could  also  be  arranged.  A  color 
device  like  Fig.  183  would  be  an  interesting  study  on  the  ground, 
and  would  be  very  interesting  up  a  little  way  on  the  kite  line.  Each 
section,  as  a,  is  independent  of  the  others,  and  the  sections  should 
alternate  as  to  directions,  the  first  going  to  the  right,  -the  next  to 
the  left  and  so  on.  It  is  as  easy  to  make  them  go  in  one  direction 
as  the  other.  A  vertical  wire  reaches  from  top  to  bottom  of  the  frame- 


90 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


THE  SWI 


& 


M 


FIGS.  178,  179,  180,  181,  182,  183. 


SUSPENDED   FIGURES  AND  APPLIANCES  91 

work  and  beads  should  be  placed  between  sections,  and  to  the  outside 
at  the  top  and  bottom.  The  colors  of  a  are  red,  yellow,  and  blue, 
but  white  could  take  the  place  of  some  color,  and  black  of  another 
section.  As  the  sections  are  not  likely  to  turn  with  the  same  rapidity, 
there  should  be  a  constant  change  of  combination  of  colors. 

Light  forms  that  fill  out  with  the  breeze  can  be  made  of  tissue 
paper  and  attached  to  the  kite  line.  Ugly  monsters  with  large  mouths 
and  highly  colored  bodies  with  heavy  lines  on  them  to  outline  scales 
are  very  striking.  It  is  necessary  to  have  these  open  at  both  ends  or 
they  will  be  torn  open,  also  it  is  best  to  have  a  light  framework  about 
the  head  to  keep  that  in  shape;  the  rest  of  the  body  will  usually  be 
taken  care  of.  Long  serpents  and  fish  are  good  for  the  purpose.  If 
the  grotesque  does  not  appeal  to  one,  long  and  short  streamers  can 
be  used  in  abundance.  A  kite  line  decorated  with  pointed  streamers 
of  various  colors  would  be  very  beautiful.  Japanese  lanterns  might 
be  festooned  along  the  line,  and  to  reduce  the  weight,  the  bottom  could 
be  removed.  If  kite  flying  is  indulged  in  at  night,  fewer  lanterns  can 
be  used,  and  these  lighted. 


CHAPTER  XI 
BALLOONS  AND  PARACHUTES. 

Balloons  that  really  go  up  are  always  attractive  but  by  thoughtful 
planning  they  can  be  made  much  more  beautiful.  A  nice  white  balloon 
against  a  blue  sky  is  very  pleasing,  but  most  boys  like  more  color.  The 
hot  air  balloons  are  made  of  tissue  paper,  and  consist  of  an  inverted 
bag  with  a  light  piece  of  reed  at  the  bottom  to  keep  the  mouth  open. 
The  most  successful  shape  is  shown  by  Fig.  184.  This  need  not  be 
perfectly  round  on  top,  but  may  be  pointed,  as  in  Fig.  185.  If  the 
balloon  is  too  nearly  round  like  a  ball,  it  is  liable  to  turn  over  and 
allow  the  hot  air  to  escape.  If  the  balloon  is  too  long  and  slender 
vertically,  it  would  probably  flounder  around  in  the  breeze  too  much. 
There  is  not  the  variety  possible  in  balloons  that  there  is  in  kites, 
as  no  ballast  can  be  attached  that  is  of  much  service.  In  some  shapes 
only  a  very  little  is  necessary  to  keep  them  in  an  upright  position,  in 
this  case  a  little  ballast  will  suffice,  and  a  number  of  shapes  can  be 
made  with  this  addition.  The  ballast  should  be  suspended  by  strings 
from  the  reed  at  the  bottom,  see  Fig.  186.  The  ballast  may  only  be 
a  piece  of  cardboard,  but  in  some  cases  that  little  is  very  necessary. 

Some  of  the  boys  try  models  of  the  dirigible,  but  usually  they  get 
something  too  large  for  hot  air  manipulation.  The  dirigible  is  more 
of  a  cigar-shaped  balloon.  Strings  run  down  to  a  framework  that 
carries  the  propeller,  which  is  a  paper  windmill  in  this  case,  but  it  is 
very  difficult  to  keep  these  representative  parts  light  enough  to  be 
carried  by  the  hot  air  medium. 

In  making  a  balloon  like  Fig.  184  the  covering  is  made  in  tapering 
sections.  The  pattern  given  is  for  a  five-foot  balloon.  The  width  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  section  is  five  inches,  three  feet  farther  up  fifteen 
inches,  and  it  comes  to  a  point  at  the  top.  The  edges  of  these  sections 
form  a  long  curve,  Fig.  187.  Five  feet  would  require  just  a  little 
over  two  lengths  of  tissue  paper.  There  are  seven  sections  in  the 
balloon. 

Inflation.  Two  methods  are  used  to  fill  the  balloons.  A  wire  is 
stretched  across  the  frame  of  the  mouth  of  the  balloon  and  another  at 

92 


BALLOONS    AND    PARACHUTES 


93 


FIGS.  184,  185,  186. 

FIGS.  187,  188,  189,  190. 

FIGS.   191,   192. 

right  angles  to  it.  A  ball  of  excelsior  having  been  soaked  in  paraffin 
is  attached  at  the  crossing  of  the  two.  The  ball  should  be  flattened 
into  a  disc  about  two  inches  in  diameter  and  one  inch  in  thickness. 


94  KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 

Holding  the  balloon  up  by  the  top  the  paraffin  disc  is  lighted  with 
a  parlor  match.  It  burns  and  creates  heat  that  collects  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  balloon.  When  it  is  rilled  so  that  it  lifts  a  little  and  wants 
to  get  away  it  is  released  carrying  up  the  heat  generator  with  it.  The 
paraffin  ball  continues  to  furnish  hot  air  until  it  burns  out.  A  balloon 
so  equipped  will  travel  several  blocks,  high  up  in  the  air.  The 
paraffin  ball  is  also  wound  about  with  a  very  fine  wire  which  is  also 
used  to  attach  the  ball  to  the  wires  across  the  opening  of  the  balloon. 
It  will  be  seen  at  once  that  a  good  sized  opening  is  necessary  and  in 
this  design,  the  reed  band  is  ten  inches  in  diameter. 

The  other  method  of  filling  is  by  means  of  a  stove  pipe  furnace 
or  some  similar  device,  but  in  this  case  all  the  heating  is  done  on  the 
ground.  A  hole  is  dug  in  the  ground  and  the  stovepipe  is  banked  in 
as  a  chimney.  A  fire  is  built  in  the  hole  and  the  hot  air  goes  up  thru 
the  pipe  to  the  balloon  that  is  suspended  over  it.  If  it  was  not  for 
the  stove  pipe  the  blaze  would  ignite  the  walls  of  the  balloon.  Some 
quite  large  balloons  have  been  sent  up  in  this  way.  A  piece  of  tin  or 
sheet  iron  is  good  to  make  a  cover  for  the  hole  in  the  ground  so  as 
to  prevent  the  dirt  from  falling  in  on  the  fire.  Some  use  a  little  oil 
on  the  fire,  but  there  should  not  be  too  much  else  the  blaze  will  reach 
up  thru  the  pipe  so  far  as  to  burn  up  the  balloon.  It  is  well  to  have 
a  cord  above  so  as  to  hold  the  balloon  up  and  if  it  is  too  high  to  hold  with 
the  hand,  a  pole  with  a  wire  on  the  end  of  it  that  could  be  readily 
released  might  be  used.  As  the  bag  gets  inflated  it  is  best  to  remove 
the  pole  and  hold  to  the  bottom  by  the  hands. 

In  pasting  the  pieces  of  paper  together,  there  should  be  about  \" 
laps.  Care  must  be  observed  in  the  pasting  that  there  are  no  detached 
places,  places  where  the  paste  does  not  stick  well,  as  the  hot  air  will 
escape.  In  the  model  given,  one  section  was  blue,  two  white,  one 
red,  and  three  white,  making  seven  in  all.  Sometimes  the  colors  are 
worked  in  differently.  Half  of  a  section  will  be  one  color,  and  the 
other  half  another,  and  next  to  each  will  be  placed  some  contrasting 
color.  Still  further  breaking  up  can  be  done  until  quite  a  design  is 
worked  out. 

It  is  possible  to  decorate  a  plain  balloon  with  surface  design,  but 
it  must  be  bold  and  not  over  done.  An  example  or  two  may  be  help- 


BALLOONS    AND    PARACHUTES  95 

ful,  Figs.  188,  189,  190.  Yellow  and  black,  black  and  red,  purple 
and  white,  green  and  white,  and  many  other  good  combinations  can 
be  selected,  but  two  or  three  colors  are  better  than  many.  The  best 
grade  of  tissue  paper  is  very  much  superior  to  the  cheap,  as  the  tendency 
of  the  cheap  to  split  out  is  very  unsatisfactory  and  there  are  thin  por- 
ous spots.  The  French  tissues,  so  called,  are  the  best,  and  they  cohie 
in  many  shades  of  good  colors. 

Parachutes  are  other  forms  of  balloon.  They  do  not  ascend  from 
the  ground,  but  are  released  up  in  the  air  and  float  downward.  Some- 
times a  current  of  air  will  catch  one  and  carry  it  far  up  and  away. 
They  are  made  like  an  umbrella  covering,  sometimes  in  sections  and 
again  in  one  piece,  Fig.  191  and  192.  When  made  in  sections,  they 
are  very  much  like  the  upper  one-third  of  a  balloon.  They  are  made 
from  the  size  of  your  hand  to  beauties  that  are  eight  feet  across; 
when  made  of  brilliantly  colored  paper,  they  are  very  interesting.  They 
have  a  weight  suspended  underneath  to  keep  them  upright  in  the  de- 
scent. Parachutes  are  usually  taken  up  on  a  kite  line  and  are  released 
well  up  in  the  air.  The  usual  method  of  shaking  them  off  the  line 
is  not  as  good  as  a  definite  release  by  a  tripping  string  from  the  ground. 
If  large  ones  are  used,  one  at  a  time  is  sufficient  and  is  simple  to  re- 
lease. The  parachute  is  tied  with  a  bow-knot  to  the  kite  line  with 
the  extra  string  and  as  this  string  is  pulled  the  knot  comes  untied  and 
the  parachute  is  released.  When  smaller  ones  are  used  they  can  be 
tied  in  a  series  and  the  lowest  down  on  the  string  or  the  highest  can 
be  released,  then  the  next,  and  so  on.  The  same  string  can  be  used 
to  tie  on  a  long  series. 

No  matter  how  small  the  parachute,  it  must  have  its  suspension 
strings  and  weight.  We  have  tried  parachute  showers  that  have  only 
been  a  partial  success,  thus  far.  A  bunch  of  these  little  parachutes 
each  with  its  own.  string  tied  to  the  kite  line,  have  been  released,  but 
in  pulling  them  up  they  are  so  liable  to  get  twisted  up,  that  when 
released  they  cling  together.  If  they  could  be  carefully  laid  in  some 
kind  of  an  apron  that  would  protect  them  from  the  breeze,  I  am  sure 
they  might  be  tumbled  out  so  as  to  separate  without  entanglement. 
It  is  a  very  pretty  sight  to  see  a  large  bunch  turned  loose,  each  spread- 


96  KITECRAFT   AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 

ing  its  tiny  night  cap  to  the  air  as  it  starts  downward.  They  should 
be  of  all  colors,  and  for  this  purpose  the  one  piece  models  and  one 
foot  in  diameter  are  best.  There  is  always  a  scramble  for  the  souvenir 
parachutes  when  they  are  released.  If  one  had  a  rubber  stamp  outfit, 
it  would  be  interesting  to  print  something  on  their  cover.  Thread 
would  be  used  for  the  suspension  cords  and  perhaps  a  shingle  nail  for 
the  weight 

Another  method  of  release  given  elsewhere  is  sometimes  used  by 
the  Chinese  and  Japanese,  is  effected  by  using  a  lighted  punk  such  as 
used  to  set  off  firecrackers;  when  the  punk  burns  down  far  enough,  it 
burns  off  a  supporting  thread,  thus  releasing  the  object  held. 


CHAPTER  XII. 
REELS. 

Reels  are  very  convenient  for  most  kite  flying  and  quite  necessary 
for  high  flying  where  so  much  string  must  be  let  out  and  wound  in 
again,  but  an  absolute  necessity  for  events  where  racing  is  an  important 
feature.  Many  devices  have  been  used  at  our  tournaments  and  some 
have  been  very  clever.  A  simple  and  effective  reel  can  be  rigged  up  in 
a  kerosene  box.  The  box  iS  long  enough  to  allow  a  seat  for  the  kite 
flyer,  a  foot  brake  can  be  arranged,  and  an  all  around  satisfactory  reel 
can  be  made  at  light  expense.  Fig.  193  shows  such  a  reel  fully  equipped. 
A  portion  of  the  top  is  cut  away  so  as  to  expose  the  spool  of  the  reel, 


FIG.  193. 
FIGS.  194,  195,  196. 

it  being  necessary  to  see  if  the  line  is  winding  properly,  to  see  if  it  is 
nearly  off,  and  to  watch  for  knots  or  entanglements.  A  measuring 
device  might  also  be  attached,  similar  to  cyclometers  used  on  bicycles. 
The  end  of  the  box  is  partially  cut  away  but  not  the  full  width  of  the 


97 


98 


KITECRAFT    AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


box,  the  portions  remaining  at  the  sides  preventing  the  kite  line  from 
getting  off  the  ends  of  the  spools.  The  portion  remaining  should  be 
a  little  wider  than  the  thickness  of  the  flanges  of  the  spool.  The 
axle  will  usually  be  a  broomstick  owing  to  the  ease  with  which  it  may 
be  obtained  and  being  hardwood,  is  very  satisfactory.  A  piece  of  pipe 
can  be  used  but  is  hard  to  drill  thru  for  the  pins  that  hold  spool  and 
crank  to  axle,  also  the  holes  that  take  pins  on  each  side  of  box  to  prevent 
slipping  endwise.  Iron  washers  are  used  on  the  outside  of  box  and 
between  spool  ends  and  inside  of  box. 

The  crank  is  shown  in  the  drawing  and  needs  no  special  directions. 
The  pin  holding  the  crank  to  the  axle  might  be  a  small  bolt  with  a 
nut,  which  adds  strength  in  the  prevention  of  splitting  of  the  end 
of  the  wood.  A  good  spool  for  the  reel  might  be  found  at  a  hard- 
ware store.  Chains  come  on  well  made  spools  that  are  excellent  for 
reels.  These  can  be  fastened  to  axle  by  slanting  pins;  nails  will  an- 
swer if  they  are  not  left  out  too  far  thru  the  outside  of  the  flanges 
of  the  spool;  also  pins  may  be  put  down  thru  the  drum  part  of  the 
spool  thru  the  axle.  In  this  case  small  holes  would  have  to  be  drilled 
from  opposite  sides  of  the  drum. 

Other  drums  can  be  made  similar  to  Fig.  194.  The  axle  is  se- 
cured to  two  wooden  disks  and  the  center  is  built  up  of  other  pieces 
as  in  Fig.  195,  or  by  wooden  rods  as  in  Fig.  196. 

A  brake  is  a  great  convenience 


FLANQE.  OF 


-..  SIDE  OF  Box 


when  letting  out  string,  as  the  reel 
sometimes  runs  ahead  of  the  kite 
and  so  entangles  the  string;  by  a 
little  pressure  of  the  foot  on  the 
brake,  the  unwinding  ceases.  The 
brake  should  act  directly  on  the 
edge  of  the  flange  of  the  spool.  The 
lever  of  the  brake  would  pass  thru 
the  left  side  of  the  box,  not  more  .- 
than  two  inches  up  from  the  bot- 
tom, Fig.  197.  In  case  the  spool  is 

too  short  for  the  width  of  the  box,  wooden  blocks  can  be  used  to  fill 
in  the  space,  but  the  opening  in  the  end  of  the  box  that  the  kite  line 


r-Tfcrr 


FIG.  197. 


REELS 


99 


passes  thru  must  be  no  wider  than  the  distance  between  the  flanges. 

Another  axle  that  has  been  mentioned  is  made  of  pipe.  The 
pipe  can  be  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  must  be  drilled  for  the  pins 
that  fasten  the  spool  to  it.  A  three-eighths  or  five-sixteenths  hole  can 
be  drilled  near  the  end  of  the  pipe  outside  the  box,  in  which  an  iron  rod 
is  riveted  with  its  outer  end  bent  at  a  right  angle.  The  rod  forms 
the  crank  of  the  reel.  If  one  has  access  to  a  heavy  metal  vise,  the 
axle  and  crank  can  be  made  of  one  piece,  Fig.  198.  If  one  wishes 
the  reel  to  run  very  easily,  a  washer  that  fits  the  axle  nicely  can  be 
fastened  to  the  side  of  the  box  with  two  screws,  Fig.  199.  The  hole 

in  the  wood  should  be  a  little 
larger  than  the  hole  in  the  wash- 
er,   thus   making  the  washer  a 
FIG-  198'  FIG-  199'       bearing  for  the  axle.    I  have  one 

that  turns  very  freely  this  way.  The  wires  running  down  to  pegs  in  the 
ground,  shown  in  Fig.  193,  are  for  the  purpose  of  anchoring  the  reel 
when  the  pull  of  the  kite  is  on. 


FIGS.  200,  201,  202. 


100 


KITECRAFT   AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


Thus  far  the  box  has  been  the  real  support,  but  other  frames  can 
be  made  as  well,  Fig.  200.  The  brake  is  applied  at  the  rear  on  this  reel, 
and  is  operated  either  by  hand  or  foot.  The  heavy  wires  are  for 
anchoring  purposes,  otherwise  the  construction  may  be  the  same  as  in 
Fig.  193. 

Another  way  of  securing  the  metal  axle  to  the  wooden  spool  is 
as  follows:  Drill  two  holes  thru  the  pipe  just  far  enough  apart  to 
allow  spool  to  fit  between.  The  holes  should  be  just  large  enough  to 
allow  a  16d  or  20d  nail  to  go  thru.  Cut  off  the  heads  of  the  nails, 
fit  in  holes  with  spool  on  axle,  and  with  good  sized  staples  fasten 
pins  (nails)  to  sides  of  spools,  see  Fig.  201.  For  the  crank,  a  f" 
hole  can  be  drilled  at  the  outer  end  of  axle  to  receive  a  §"  rod  bent 
at  one  end  to  form  the  handle.  The  end  of  the  crank  that  passes  thru 
the  axle  might  be  threaded  about  1£"  so  as  to  put  a  nut  on  each  side, 
see  Fig.  202. 

A  Large  Reel.  The  two  general  plans  given  above  are  for  com- 
paratively small  reels.  Fig.  203  shows  a  reel  that  winds  in  over  four 
feet  at  a  turn.  It  has  but  one  bearing,  be- 
ing attached  to  the  standard  by  a  large  bolt 
for  an  axle.  It  would  be  well  to  have  a 
piece  of  pipe  just  large  enough  to  allow  the 
bolt  to  turn  freely  and  just  long  enough  to 
reach  thru  the  wheel  as  a  bushing,  for  this 
is  much  more  like  a  wheel.  The  sides  or 
flanges  are  made  of  two  ply  wood,  in  one- 
half  of  the  thickness  the  grain  runs  one  way 
and  the  other  half  at  right  angles  to  it,  so 
that  it  prevents  warping  and  is  not  liable  to 
spit.  There  is  no  real  drum,  but  small 

wooden  rods,  or  slim  bolts,  hold  the  sides  together,  also  apart,  and  are  set 
about  two  inches  in  from  the  outside  circumference.  In  the  drawing,  the 
wheel  being  18"  in  diameter,  the  bolts  or  rods  are  in  a  circle  14"  in  diam- 
eter. The  bolts  or  rods  should  be  about  eight  in  number.  If  wood  rods, 
doweling,  are  used,  they  would  be  glued  at  both  ends  and  no  other  posts 
would  be  necessary,  but  with  the  bolts,  posts  will  be  needed  to  prevent  the 


FIG.  203. 


REELS 


101 


sides  from  coming  together.     Four  posts  will  be  sufficient.     No  crank 
-is  necessary  on  this  reel  as  a  handle  can  be  fastened  to  the  side  of  one 


FIG.  204. 


FIG.  205. 


of  the  large  discs.  A  brake  can  be  attached  underneath  as  in  the 
last  reel.  The  axle  must  be  made  very  rigid  in  the  standard  as  it 
has  to  support  all  the  pull  of  the  reel.  This  is  a  first  class  reel  for 
fast  work. 

Discs  can  be  obtained  at  some  box  factories  for  seven  and  ten  cents 
apicie  for  sizes  15§"  and  19^"  in  diameter,  respectively.  They  are 
made  of  two  ply  wood  and  make  good  reels.  A  good  way  to  get  the 
holes  opposite  is  to  clamp  the  two  discs  together  and  bore  all  the  holes 
thru  both  at  the  same  time.  Others  make  reels  very  much  like  our 
grandmothers'  yarn  reels.  Two  arms  are  halved  together  and  short 
cross-pieces  are  attached  to  the  ends,  Fig.  204.  For  speed  they  are  made 
with  long  arms  and  take  up  a  good  length  of  string  at  a  single  turn. 

Another  way  of  building  up  a  reel  is  shown  in  Fig.  205.  A  square 
block  has  fans  nailed  or  screwed  to  each  side.  The  ends  of  the  fans 
are  shaped  out  to  receive  the  kite  line.  The  end  of  the  square  center 
piece  can  be  rounded  so  as  to  pass  thru  a  round  hole  of  the  framework, 
•or  a  hole  can  be  bored  thru  the  square  piece  and  a  pipe  or  rod  inserted 
as  with  the  others.  For  heavy  work  where  large  string  pulling  kites 


102 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


are  used,  geared  reels  are  practical.  Fig.  206  shows  a  picture  of  a  boy 
and  his  reel  rigged  up  with  a  chain  drive,  utilizing  parts  of  a  bicycle. 
This  was  devised  for  speed,  but  it  needs  flanges  at  the  ends  of  the 
drum.  If  one  wished  to  put  time  enough  on  a  reel,  he  could  rig  one 
up  out  of  parts  of  a  bicycle  that  could  be  manipulated  by  the  feet.  A 
coaster  brake  would  let  out  the  string  and  the  winding  in  could  be 
made  as  swift  as  any  kite  would  stand.  The  wheel  used  for  the  drum 
portion  would  need  quite  a  little  modification  to  prevent  the  string 
from  jumping  off.  As  the  usual  frame  would  not  admit  of  any  widen- 
ing, some  additional  framework  would  also  be  necessary  to  make  it 
stable  enough.  If  one  is  going  to  do  much  kite  flying,  it  pays  to  take 
time  to  make  a  good  reel,  not  the  last  one  described  necessarily,  as  that  is 
more  for  speed,  and  is  not  as  convenient  as  a  number  of  others,  but  a 
good  simple  reel  is  a  great  satisfaction. 


FIG.  206. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
AEROPLANE  MODELS. 

Aeroplane  Models  are  small  sized  aeroplanes.  They  may  be 
divided  into  four  classes: 

A.  Small  models  of  large  machines,  made  for  the  purposes  of 
construction. 

B.  Small  models  of  large  machines  made  for  the  purpose  of  flying 
as  kites. 

C.  Gliders. 

D.  Self-propelling  models. 

It  will  be  seen  at  a  glance  that  this  chapter  should  be  expanded 
into  a  book  by  itself.  Mr.  Collins  has  written  an  excellent  book,  "The 
Second  Book  of  Model  Aeroplanes",  on  the  subject,  and  I  hope  the 
readers  of  this  book  will  look  it  up,  as  it  will  be  worth  while.  In 
dealing  with  the  subject  in  this  chapter  we  can  not  go  into  it  very 
deeply  and  not  many  plans  can  be  given,  but  we  will  try  to  touch  here 
and  there  some  of  the  important  features  of  construction. 

I  have  grouped  the  model  aeroplanes  into  four  divisions,  but  before 
we  proceed  it  will  be  well  to  notice  the  various  classes  of  large  machines. 
There  is  the  monoplane  or  one  plane  type;  the  biplane  or  two  planes, 
one  above  the  other;  and  the  multiplanes  in  which  several  planes  are 
used.  The  first  two  have  survived,  and  form  the  very  large  percentage 
of  all  that  are  attempted  these  days.  I  should  like  to  make  clear  that 
I  do  not  recommend,  even  discourage,  any  attempt  at  gliders  large 
enough  to  carry  the  maker,  and  the  aeroplane  in  which  a  motor  engine 
is  to  be  placed.  There  is  too  much  danger  connected  with  them,  and  our 
lives  and  limbs  are  too  precious  a  gift  to  be  trifled  with  in  such  un- 
necessary ventures.  The  little  models,  however,  are  harmless  and  yet 
are  very  fascinating,  even  when  there  is  no  thought  of  their  embodiment 
in  a  large  machine. 

In  group  A,  where  the  worker  seeks  to  imitate  a  large  machine  in 
miniature,  the  joy  of  the  undertaking  lies  in  the  processes  involving 
very  accurate  work  and  nicety  of  finish.  There  is  a  fascination  for 
young  people  in  the  making  of  things  in  miniature.  The  models  made 

103 


KITECRAFT   AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


in  group  A  are  usually  larger  than  in  group  D,  as  the  pieces  of  the 
framework  need  a  little  more  material  to  work  to  advantage,  while  in 
D,  the  parts  must  be  kept  light.  Weight  is  not  so  much  of  an  item  irk 
group  A. 


FIG.  207. 


FIG.  208. 

The  photograph  of  the  Curtis  model,  Fig.  207,  has  a  clock  spring: 
works  in  it,  but  it  is  of  no  service.  This  is  a  very  fine  piece  of  work 
and  has  been  admired  by  many.  Outside  of  the  clock  works  the  model 


AEROPLANE    MODELS  105 


is  all  handmade.  Little  turn  buckles  for  tightening  the  guy  wires  were 
made,  as  well  as  the  little  metal  attachments  to  which  the  ends  of  the 
guy  wires  are  attached.  The  silk  covering  was  stretched  and  oiled  on 
the  frame. 

An  equally  well  made  model  is  shown  in  Fig.  208.  In  this  mono- 
plane all  the  curving  of  ribs  and  trussing  of  frame  were  very  accurately 
done.  It  will  be  recognized  that  this  is  a  very  excellent  piece  of  work 
and  the  outlines  of  the  planes  are  very  beautiful  and  well  proportioned. 
The  planes  are  supported  at  the  outer  ends  by  careful  adjustment  of 
wires  above  and  below  the  wings.  Notice  the  two  little  braces  above 
the  center  of  the  framework  to  which  the  guy  wires  are  attached. 
Turn-buckles  are  used  on  this  model  also.  The  horizontal  and  vertical 
planes  to  the  rear  of  the  model,  but  to  the  front  in  the  picture,  were 
ideas  original  with  the  maker,  altho  I  have  seen  pictures  similar  to  this 
since. 

Some  make  up  these  models  in  good  shape  for  the  purpose  of  using 
them  as  attractions  in  show  windows.  Merchants  will  sometimes  give 
a  rental  for  a  good  model.  Very  often  when  used  as  a  display,  an 
electric  motor  is  installed  in  them  so  as  to  run  the  propellers. 

In  group  B,  the  models  are  made  to  fly  as  kites.  It  is  possible  to 
gain  much  knowledge  about  the  motor  driven  models  by  patient  study 
on  the  aeroplane  kite.  The  kite  flying  side  will  not  help  so  much  as 
the  gliding.  When  the  aeroplane  kite  is  well  up,  if  the  string  is  allowed 
considerable  slack,  the  model  will  glide  if  well  balanced  and  if  the 
planes  are  tilted  properly.  Balance  will  be  necessary  both  to  right  and 
left  and  fore  and  aft.  It  is  very  interesting  to  get  such  a  model  pulled 
well  up  in  the  air  and  have  a  release  that  will  cut  the  kite  line.  The 
punk  method  is  good,  only  that  we  would  like  to  have  better  control 
of  just  the  time  for  cutting  loose.  The  punk  has  this  advantage  how- 
ever that  not  knowing  just  when  it  will  cut  loose  you  are  held  in  happy 
suspense,  just  as  you  wait  for  a  bite  on  your  fish  line. 

Another  simple  releasing  device  can  be  used:  hooks  are  placed  on 
the  kite  at  each  point  of  attachment  of  the  bridle,  and  on  the  end  of 
each  string  of  the  bridle  is  tied  a  small  ring,  which  is  to  be  hooked  on 
the  hook  of  the  kite.  The  hooks  must  bend  back  and  downward  and 


106 


KITECRAFT   AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


FIGS.  209,  210,  211,  212,  213,  214,  215. 


AEROPLANE    MODELS  107 


must  be  stiff  enough  not  to  bend.  Of  course  the  kite  line  will  have  to 
be  kept  quite  taut  until  time  for  release,  when,  if  the  line  is  slackened 
suddenly,  the  rings  drop  off,  thus  releasing  the  kite  line.  If  it  glides 
well  some  interesting  things  will  develop.  There  will  be  swoops  and 
glides,  and  loop  the  loops  and  all  sorts  of  gyrations  before  it  reaches 
the  ground.  If  one  is  going  to  make  a  model  just  to  fly  in  the  air 
without  the  maneuvering,  but  to  look  like  an  aeroplane  in  the  air,  it 
should  have  the  bridle  placed  so  as  to  cause  the  kite  to  stay  as  near  the 
horizontal  as  possible.  In  order  to  do  this,  the  upper  loop  of  the  bridle 
should  be  shortened  or  the  lower  one  lengthened  as  on  a  tailless  or 
any  other  kite.  On  the  tailless  kite  one  can  shift  the  bridle  so  as  to 
make  the  kite  stay  nearly  over  head,  in  fact  I  have  had  them  pass  the 
zenith  and  dive  over  to  the  other  side,  and  that  well  up  in  the  air.  A 
propeller  that  is  turned  by  the  breeze  will  help  considerably  in  giving  it 
a  realistic  touch.  Fig.  99  is  very  good  for  aeroplane  kites.  The  side 
wings  can  be  extended  and  modified,  as  in  Fig.  209,  or  the  cross-pieces 
can  be  bowed  up,  as  in  Fig.  210.  The  bridle  should  be  attached  only 
in  two  places. 

A  biplane  is  shown  Fig.  211,  one  with  bowed  cross-pieces  in  Fig. 
212,  and  one  with  bent  up  tips  on  the  upper  plane  in  Fig.  213.  The 
folded  paper  glider  made  by  the  children  soars  excellently ;  try  an 
aeroplane  kite  on  that  plan,  Fig.  214.  Another  modification  of  Fig. 
214  is  the  bird  aeroplane  kite,  Fig.  215.  In  this  a  plane  is  placed  about 
half  way  from  front  to  back.  The  ends  of  the  wings  get  their  curve 
from  the  back  stick,  a  piece  of  heavy  reed,  and  the  outline  of  the  bird 
is  also  of  reed.  By  drawing  the  shape  on  a  board  the  reed  can  be  bent 
to  the  shape.  The  reed  should  be  wet  and  tacks  should  be  driven  at 
each  side  to  keep  the  shape  until  dry.  This  kite,  if  well  made,  should 
glide  for  a  very  long  distance. 

It  would  take  too  much  space  to  go  into  details  with  each  design, 
but  the  drawings  I  think  will  be  sufficient  for  most  readers  who  may  be 
planning  these  models,  especially  where  framework  and  finished  kite 
are  both  given. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
GLIDERS. 

In  group  C  is  to  be  found  the  most  profitable  source  of  study  for 
the  self-propelling  model  aeroplane.  The  glider  has  no  motor  and  no 
propeller,  but  is  made  on  the  plan  of  the  motored  model  in  the  con- 
struction and  adjustments.  The  glider  is  usually  made  smaller  at  first, 
increasing  the  size  to  the  actual  model  later.  The  glider  is  more  useful 
for  study,  if  it  is  made  heavier  in  comparison  with  the  motored  model. 
The  glider  can  be  thrown  by  the  hand  as  if  it  were  a  spear,  Fig.  216, 
or  it  can  be  thrown  by  a  rubber  cord,  Fig.  217,  or  by  a  spring}-  stick, 
Fig.  218. 


FIG.  216. 


FIG.  217. 


All  experiments  except  those  intended  for  adverse  conditions,  should 
be  made  either  indoors  where  there  is  no  wind,  or  away  from  buildings 
far  enough  to  be  out  of  reach  of  the  whirls  that  are  always  present  near 
buildings.  Heavy  paper  can  be  used  for  planes  in  some  of  the  experi- 
menting, and  even  much  may  be  learned  by  the  use  of  paper  models 
thruout  the  whole  construction,  but  a  little  stiffening  with  small  thin 
strips  as  reinforcement  is  better  in  most  cases. 

For  the  model  that  is  thrown  like  a  spear  from  the  hand,  wood  is 
used  for  all  parts.  The  spine  can  be  fxfxSO*,  the  fore  plane  |"x2V' 
in  widest  part  x  8",  and  the  rear  plane  }"x44"  in  widest  part  x  20". 


108 


GLIDERS 


109 


Bevel  off  the  under  side  of  the  front  edge  of  both  planes.  Fasten  the 
planes  to  the  spine  with  rubber  string,  rubber  bands  will  do,  this  will 
allow  easy  adjustment  back  and  forth  on  the  spine.  There  are  many 
experiments  that  can  be  tried  with  this  model.  Move  the  foreplane 
back,  try;  move  back  plane  foreward,  try;  move  foreplane  foreward, 
try,  and  so  on.  This  model  and  all  other  models  are  just  the  opposite 


/I 


FIG.  218. 


FIG.  219. 


of  teeter  boards.  If  too  much  pressure  comes  at  one  end,  up  it  goes,  if 
too  much  at  the  other,  up  that  end  goes,  while  the  same  thing  applied 
to  the  teeter,  that  end  goes  down.  It  then  seems  clear  at  the  start  that 
we  must  have  balance  fore  and  aft,  as  well  as  right  and  left,  with  the 
kite  we  must  balance  right  and  left,  but  if  the  up  and  down  does  not 
quite  tally  we  can  counteract  by  adjustment  of  the  bridle,  but  on  gliders 
and  model  aeroplanes,  there  are  no  bridles.  The  little  ship  must  go 
"all  .by  its  lonely". 

Another  adjustment  is  possible,  and  probably  will  be  necessary,  and 
that  is  tipping  of  the  planes.     By  the  use  of  little  wedges,  the  front 


110  KITECRAFT  AND  KITE  TOURNAMENTS 

edges  of  the  planes  may  be  tilted  up,  and  by  trial  \ve  can  decide  what 
we  think  the  best  angle,  which  should  not  be  great.  Possibly  \"  might 
be  used  under  the  front  edge.  It  will  pay  to  spend  much  time  in  ex- 
perimentation on  these  gliders,  and  it  should  be  carried  on  until  long 
graceful  glides  are  accomplished. 

It  will  be  discovered  long  before  this,  that  in  a  very  large  percentage 
of  cases  the  arrangement  of  planes  is  reversed  in  model  aeroplanes  and 
the  large  machines.  The  small  planes  are  placed  forward  and  are  used 
largely  as  elevating  surfaces.  A  few  models  have  the  large  plane  for- 
ward. It  will  also  be  noticed  in  looking  over  plans  of  model  aeroplanes 
that  a  large  majority  are  monoplanes,  while  in  the  large  machines  there 
are  more  biplanes. 

Warping.  No  warping  of  the  planes  is  necessary  in  the  glider  that 
has  been  discussed,  but  it  is  well  in  the  lighter  models  to  have  some 
warping  called  camber,  in  the  larger  planes  especially.  Another  warp- 
ing is  from  end  to  end  of  the  plane,  that  is,  the  ends  tip  upward,  never 
downward.  Sometimes  models  are  made  with  the  large  plane  warped 
from  front  to  back,  and  with  the  small  plane  bent  upward  on  each 
side,  and  again  the  large  plane  is  sometimes  bent  in  both  directions  as 
it  is  made.  The  last  is  more  easily  done  when  wire  frameworks  are 
used  in  the  self-propelling  models.  In  Fig.  217  the  model  is  made 
lighter,  the  spine  being  a  heavy  piece  of  reed  with  a  hook  bent  on  the 
end  and  the  planes  \"  or  ^V  veneer  wood. 

The  sling  shot  device  for  throwing  the  glider  is  made  of  heavy 
spring  wire,  and  will  require  a  strong  metal  vice  to  bend  it  in.  A 
forked  stick  can  be  used,  or  one  can  be  cut  out  with  a  turning  saw. 
Fig.  218  is  quite  similar  to  Fig.  217  in  weight,  but  a  square  spine 
i"xf"xl8"  with  planes  \"  or  -,V'x2"x6",  2"  in  widest  part  and  the 
other  \"  or  TV'x4"xl2",  4"  in  widest  part.  The  force  used  to  drive 
this  glider  is  given  thru  a  spring}-  stick  of  some  tough  wood,  as  oak  or 
hickory.  The  stick  should  be  quite  stiff  so  as  to  resist  more  pressure 
before  its  relaese.  A  little  block  on  the  under  side  of  the  spine  might 
have  a  little  hole  in  the  back  to  receive  a  small  nail  in  the  end  of  the 
bow  stick  used  to  throw  the  glider,  this  will  prevent  the  bow  stick  from 
slipping  off  in  the  throwing  process. 


GLIDERS  111 

One  other  glider  should  be  mentioned,  and  that  is  one  with  sheet 
metal  planes,  Fig.  219.  This  has  advantages  and  disadvantages.  When 
it  strikes  hard  against  some  object,  the  metal  is  liable  to  bend,  also  if 
it  is  thrown  violently,  and  should  strike  someone  on  the  face  or  hands 
it  might  cut.  The  metal  surfaces  can  be  bent  into  any  shape.  All 
corners  should  be  rounded.  Some  of  these  gliders  can  be  thrown  long 
distances  if  properly  adjusted. 

After  working  awhile  with  gliders,  we  can  try  model  aeroplanes 
that  are  suited  for  the  instalment  of  motors  later.  Everything  must  be 
made  as  light  and  strong  as  possible.  All  kinds  of  ribbed  surfaces,  keels, 
and  light  wire  braced  frameworks,  are  utilized.  Everything  that  would 
be  used  in  a  self-propelling  model,  except  the  propeller  and  motor. 

Make  the  planes  movable  so  they  may  be  balanced  as  to  pressure,  by 
moving  them  back  and  forth,  flex  more,  flex  less,  tilt  more,  tilt  less, 
until  you  get  a  good  glider  out  of  it,  then  attach  your  motor  and  pro- 
peller. Some  may  think  best  to  put  motor  and  propeller  on,  and  do  all 
the  experimenting,  but  it  takes  time  to  make  a  good  propeller,  and  the 
fewer  jams  it  has  the  better,  so  it  is  better  to  do  some  experimenting 
with  the  model  before  the  propeller  is  added.  The  motor  will  make 
practically  no  difference  in  the  balance,  so  there  would  be  no  advantage 
of  putting  it  on  for  experiments  in  gliding. 

We  are  now  ready  for  some  attempts  on  the  self-propelling  models. 


CHAPTER  XV. 
MODEL  AEROPLANES. 

Self-propelling  air  devices  must  be  of  the  lightest  possible  weight 
and  yet  they  must  have  strength.  There  will  be  no  attempt  to  give  a 
great  variety  of  model  aeroplanes;  but  a  few  can  be  discussed,  perhaps 
three  or  four.  The  first  is  a  little  practice  model  that  has  been  of  great 
service  to  me,  both  for  study  and  for  instruction  to  others.  It  is  small 
and  will  not  fly  far.  I  can  wind  it  up  and  turn  it  loose  in  a  schoolroom. 
It  hits  rather  hard  sometimes  but  nothing  has  happened  to  it  beyond  a 
broken  propeller,  and  the  rubber  bands  that  are  used  to  tie  the  planes 
to  the  spine  have  been  broken. 


FIG.  220. 

In  Fig.  220  the  model  is  shown  in  two  views,  the  plan  and  side 
elevation.  The  planes  are  made  of  -fa"  birch  veneer,  but  other  woods, 
will  do.  The  small  fore  plane  is  bent  at  quite  a  sharp  angle  and  was 


112 


MODEL    AEROPLANES 


113 


shaped  as  shown  in  Fig.  221.  Steam  the  plane  thoroly  over  the  tea- 
kettle and  place  it  under  pressure  until  dry  and  it  will  remain  so  bent. 
The  plane  is  also  tilted  up  a  little  by  means  of  a  small  wedge. 

The  spine  is  made  of  spruce  and  is 
i"xi"x!2".  The  large  plane  has  about  £" 
camber  and  is  bent  as  shown  in  Fig.  222. 
Lay  a  strip  as  thick  as  the  desired  camber 
on  a  board  that  you  can  nail  brads  into. 
Steam  the  veneer  for  the  plane  and  lay  in 
the  -J"  strip  in  this  case  about  one-third  the 
distance  back  from  the  front  edge,  bend 
down  until  the  edge  touches  the  board  underneath  the  strip  and  drive 
brads  in  slanting  so  as  to  hold  it  down.  The  brads  can  be  bent  down  a 
little  after  they  are  driven  in.  By  using  brads  on  both  sides  the  veneer  can 


FIGS.  221,  222. 


i 


FIG.  223. 


be  held  down  until  dry.  The  outline  can  be  cut  away  before  or  after  the 
bending.  The  decoration  of  course  is  not  essential,  but  it  is  interesting  to 
beautify  it  a  little.  The  anchor  block  for  the  propeller  shaft  is  of  wood 
£"xl"xl"  and  is  glued  and  nailed  with  brads  to  the  rear  end  of  the- 
spine.  A  piece  of  tin  f "  wide  is  bent  about  the  top  of  the  anchor  block,  /, 
Fig.  223.  The  hole  in  the  wood  should  be  larger  than  the  propeller 
shaft  while  the  hole  in  the  tin  should  make  a  good 
fit.  In  this  way  the  bearing  is  on  the  tin  instead 
of  the  wood,  and  reduces  the  friction  to  a  min- 
imum. After  the  tin  is  on,  the  block  should  be 
wound  with  linen  thread  and  coated  with  glue 

or  shellac. 
FIGS.  224,  225. 

The  propeller  shaft  is  made  from  a  bicycle 

spoke,  Fig.  223 ;  two  of  these  can  be  purchased  for  a  nickel.  The  long  nut, 


114 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


shown  at  b,  is  cut  with  a  metal  saw  in  two  places,  giving  small  nuts  c  and 
d;  c  is  used  on  the  inside  and  d  on  the  outside  of  the  propeller.  The  spoke 
is  then  cut  off  long  enough  to  pass  thru  the  propeller,  a  glass  bead  as  a 
washer,  and  the  anchor  block,  with  room  for  a  good  hook  on  the  end  for 
the  attachment  of  the  rubber  motor.  The  propeller  will  be  discussed  fur- 
ther in  the  next  chapter ;  the  only  thing  to  be  mentioned  here  is  the  size  of 
the  blank  from  which  it  is  made,  which  is  £"xl"x4".  Another  piece 
of  the  spoke  is  bent  as  in  Fig.  224,  and  is  inserted  in  the  fore  end  of  the 
spine  and  bent  still  further  into  shape  like  Fig.  225.  This  gives  the 
other  anchor  hook  for  the  rubber  motor.  One  other  piece  is  the  small 
keel  shown  in  the  side  view.  A  groove  is  made  in  the  under  side  of 
the  spine  and  the  keel  set  in  with  glue. 

I  am  using  four  rounds  of  -fa" 
rubber  string  for  the  motor.  That 
makes  eight  strands.  Six  do  very 
well.  This  is  a  very  useful  little 
model  but  it  will  not  fly  over  fifty 
feet,  or  mine  has  not,  but  the  fact 
that  it  does  not  fly  far,  gives  you 
opportunity  to  study  its  start,  its 
landing,  and  its  flight.  The  long 
distance  models  are  out  of  observa- 


tion range  so  soon  that  we  miss 
the  chance  to  diagnose  their  crazy 
symptoms,  if  they  have  any,  and 
most  of  them  have  some. 

At    the    beginning    of    model 

areoplane  making,  everyone  seemed  to  try  to  see  how  much  surface  could 
be  exposed  in  the  planes,  now  the  best  models  are  those  with  as  narrow 
planes  as  it  is  possible  to  use  and  still  support  the  air  craft.  The  reason  is 
obvious — there  is  so  much  skin  friction  on  broad  surfaces.  At  the  begin- 
ning, many  were  inclined  to  scoff  at  the  rubber  band  motor,  but  since 
flights  have  been  made  considerably  over  a  half  mile,  with  this  same 
power,  it  seems  good  enough  for  anybody.  Most  of  the  long  distance  fly- 
ers have  long  framework  so  as  to  accommodate  long  strands  of  rubber, 
which  allow  much  increase  in  the  winding  up  of  the  motor. 


FIG.  226. 


MODEL    AEROPLANES 


115 


A  Good  Model.  A  simple  and  effective  model  is  shown  in  Fig. 
226.  Lay  out  a  light  framework,  as  shown  in  Fig.  227.  It  is  the 
combination  of  a  tailless  kite  and  a  triangular  box-kite.  Three  long 


FIGS.  227,  228. 


sticks,  a,  b,  c,  are  used  for  the  triangular  portion  and  three  cross-sticks, 
d,  e,  f ',  are  for  the  wing  supports.  A  vertical  post,  g,  about  ^"xf "x8" 
is  used  in  the  center  of  the  rear  (the  wide  part),  to  stiffen  the  frame  and 
give  an  anchorage  for  the  propeller  shaft.  Four  light  braces,  h,  i,  j,  and 
k,  make  it  possible  to  use  lighter  material  than  one  would  suspect  for 
the  entire  framework.  In  a  model  3'  long,  a,  b,  and  c,  need  not  be 
larger  than  -£%'  square,  but  there  must  be  no  split  or  uneven  places  in 
a  stick  so  small.  The  braces  |"xTV'  would  be  plenty  large.  The  two 
upper  pieces,  b,  c,  should  be  flattened  on  the  inside  of  the  front  end 
so  as  to  make  them  join  together,  terminating  in  a  point.  The  lower 
spine,  a,  should  be  flattened  on  the  upper  side  for  the  same  reason.  All 
three  should  be  glued  and  lashed  together  with  linen  thread.  A  tri- 
angular block,  /,  should  be  placed  about  4"  back  from  the  front  end 
with  a  strong  cup-hook  screwed  in  the  side  toward  the  rear,  on  which 
the  ring  of  the  rubber  motor  is  attached.  The  block,  I,  must  be  well 
secured  to  the  triangular  framework  with  glue  and  thread.  The  cross- 
piece,  d,  is  30"  long  and  is  bowed  upward  as  is  shown  by  Fig.  228. 
Piece  e  is  24"  long,  5"  in  front  of  d,  and  both  are  TV'xi".  i"x^" 
will  be  heavy  enough  for  f,  and  this  should  be  bowed  much  more  than 
d,  and  e.  It  will  be  necessary  to  steam  this  piece  a  little.  Chinese  rice 


116 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


tissue  will  be  good  for  covering.  Cover  the  underside  of  the  two  planes, 
and  the  underside  of  the  triangular  framework  which  is  similar  to  the 
hull  of  a  boat,  and  acts  as  a  keel.  Test  out  well  as  a  glider.  Put  more 


FIG.  229. 

and  less  curve  to  bows,  and  experiment  for  poise  of  model.  A  small 
piece  of  tin  on  each  side  of  the  support  will  give  a  good  bearing  for  the 
propeller  shaft.  The  hole  in  the  wood  should  be  a  trifle  larger  than 

the  shaft.  String  is  run  from  both 
ends  of  d  and  e  to  the  front  end  of 
the  framework  but  is  not  attached 
to/. 

When  long  models  are  made 
with  single  spine,  they  need  some 
simple  wire  supports  to  prevent 
springing  up  or  down,  and  from 
left  to  right.  Fig.  229  is  4'  long 
and  th'e  spine  is  only  £"x£"  at  the 
small  end  i"xf "  at  the  larger  end. 
A  little  -fa"  oak  veneer  cut  in 
strips  -j^-"  wide  would  be  very 
serviceable  for  the  purpose  of  sup- 
port in  trussing  the  long  spine.  It 

should  stand  2"  above  and  below 
FIGS.  230,  231,  232.  ,    ,  , 

the  spine,  and  the  same  amount  for 

the  right  and  left  brace,  Fig.  230.  The  wires  for  these  should  extend 
about  a  foot  on  each  side  of  these  posts,  and  be  attached  to  the  spine 
with  little  tin  anchors,  as  shown  in  Fig.  230,  a. 


MODEL   AEROPLANES 


117 


The  propeller  shaft  bearing  is  of  metal  and  is  lashed  to  the  cross- 
piece,  called  the  base,  Fig.  231.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  two  points 
of  bearing  for  the  shaft.  The  metal  is  about  ^"x^'xl",  bent  as  in 


\J 


FIG.  233. 

Fig.  232,  and  lashed  to  the  under  side  of  the  base.  The  planes  are 
similar  to  those  in  the  next  model.  I"xl£"x7£"  propeller  blanks  are 
used.  Try  about  fourteen  strands  of  13$"  string  rubber  for  each  motor, 
seven  rounds. 

My  favorite  model  aero- 
plane is  shown  in  Fig.  233.  It 
had  made  some  very  pretty  flights 
when  it  took  a  notion  to  glide  into, 
a  young  man's  bicycle  as  he  was 
riding  by.  Well,  there  was  no  im- 
provement on  the  aeroplane  when 
the  chain  and  spokes  of  the  bicycle 
were  thru  with  it. 

The  framework  is  light  and  is 
spread  well  at  the  rear.  The  two 
spines  are  •^•//x^//x33"  and  they 
come  together  at  the  forward  end,  FIGS.  234,  235,  236,  237. 


118 


KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 


fold,  on 
-^dotted.  li^ 


h. 


c 


FIG.  238. 


the  vertical  section  being  £".  Nine 
inches  back  from  the  front  end  is  a 
cross-piece  that  is  just  under  -J"  in 
thickness,  \"  wide  and  2\"  long. 
The  cross-piece  is  on  the  upper  side 
of  the  spines,  and  is  fastened  by  a 
small  \"  brad,  is  lashed  with 
thread  and  coated  with  glue  or 
shellac.  The  other  cross-piece  is  1" 
forward  from  the  rear  end,  is  of 
the  same  dimensions  in  cross-section 
as  the  forward  piece,  but  is  8"  long 

and  is  secured  in  the  same  manner  as  the  other,  see  Fig.  234.  The 
framework  is  further  stiffened  by  two  fine  wires  that  run  diagonally 
from  the  ends  of  one  cross-piece  to  the  ends  of  the  other.  They  are 
secured  to  the  inside  vertical  face  of  the  spines  by  means  of  small 
pieces  of  tin  that  have  two  small 
holes,  one  at  each  end,  the  one 
receives  a  4/'  brad  that  is  driven 
into  the  spine,  while  the  wire  is 
attached  to  the  other  hole.  The 
little  pieces  of  tin  are  about  -jV/xi" 
and  are  lashed  to  the  spine  in  ad- 
dition to  the  fastening  by  the  small 
brad.  This  kind  of  fastening  pre- 
vents slipping,  also  the  cutting  in- 
to the  wood,  either  of  which  would 
destroy  the  efficiency  of  the  wire.  In 
order  to  increase  the  tension  of 
the  wire,  a  small  turn-buckle  is  in- 
serted, Fig.  235. 


FlGS-  239»  24°- 


The  bearings  for  the  propeller 
shafts  are  lashed  to  the  outside  face  FlG-  241- 

of  the  rear  end  of  each  spine,  Fig.  236.    The  bearing  is  a  piece  of  brass 
tV'xi"xl">  and  is  bent  to  a  right  angle  at  the  middle.     A  small  hole 


MODEL    AEROPLANES 


119 


is  drilled  for  a  brad  into  the  side  of  the  spine  and  the  other  hole  is 
drilled  to  receive  the  propeller  shaft,  which  is  -fa"  steel  wire.  The 
shaft  is  bent  into  a  hook  after  it  passes  thru  the  bearing.  To  prevent 
the  rubber  of  the  motor  from  touching  the  steel  wire,  which  is 
injurious  to  the  rubber,  a  small  rubber  hose  is  slipped  over  the 
hook.  In  this  model,  the  propellers  are  pieces  of  veneer  steamed  and 
pressed  into  the  spiral  shape.  The  propeller  shaft  then  is  bent  around 
the  center  of  the  propeller,  has  two  little  washers  between  this  and  the 
bearing,  after  which  comes  the  covered  hook,  see  Fig.  237.  A  piece  of  tin 
\"  wide  and  \\"  long  is  folded  about  the  propeller  before  the  shaft  is  bent 
around.  The  shaft  is  soldered  to  the  tin,  the  tin  being  secured  by  two 
small  brads  and  shellac.  A  small  tin  rudder  with  a  small  fold  in  its 


FIG.  242. 

upper  portion  may  be  slipped  over  the  back  cross-piece,  Fig.  238.  The 
fore  plane  is  made  of  very  thin  spruce,  shaped  like  Fig.  239,  and  is  bent 
up  almost  like  a  butterfly's  wings,  Fig.  240.  The  wood  is  less  than 
-fa"  thick.  A  double  hook  as  anchors  for  the  double  motors,  is  bent 
and  secured  about  the  fore  end  of  the  framework.  The  hooks  are 
covered  with  the  rubber  hose,  the  same  as  the  propeller  shaft,  Fig.  241. 
The  large  plane  is  4^"  in  the  widest  place  and  is  20"  long.  It  is  the 
shape  of  Fig.  242  in  outline,  the  straight  side  being  to  the  rear.  The 
outline  of  the  plane  is  a  steel  or  brass  spring  wire  -fa"  diameter  and  is 


120  KITECRAFT    AND    KITE    TOURNAMENTS 

spliced  at  the  center  of  the  long  sides,  being  soldered  at  this  point.  The 
ends  of  the  wire  lap  over  an  inch  or  more.  There  are  but  two  ribs 
which  are  5^"  from  the  outer  ends.  The  ribs  have  a  slight  curve  up- 
ward, most  of  it  being  near  the  free  edge  of  the  plane,  Fig.  243.  The 
ends  of  the  ribs  are  bent  at  a  right  angle  and  are  soldered  to  the  outside 
framework  of  wire.  The  cover  of  the  plane  is  made  of  prepared  silk 
and  is  made  4/'  larger  all  around  than  the  size  of  the  outline  of  the  wire 
frame.  A  4/'  hem  is  then  turned  which  gives  strength  to  the  edge.  The 
cover  is  now  over  cast  with  needle  and  thread  to  the  framework,  stretch- 
ing fairly  tight. 

The   framework  of   the   large   plane   is 
not  secured  directly  to  the  wooden  frame- 
work of  the  model,  but  is  soldered  to  wire 
loops  that  in   turn  lie  flat  on   top  of  the 
bt>.  frame        spines  of  the  frame,  Fig.  242,  a,  a.     This 
P      243  gives  opportunity  to  tie  with  string  so  as  to 

try  out  the  model.     If  it  is  too  far  forward, 

if  can  be  slipped  back  and  vice  versa;  when  the  correct  position  is 
located,  it  is  permanently  wired  to  the  wooden  framework.  The  tore 
plane  is  attached  by  means  of  rubber  string.  This  is  known  as  the  Mann 
monoplane,  and  is  a  commercial  product. 

The  propellers  will  be  further  discussed  in  the  next  chapter. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

PROPELLERS, 

MOTORS,  GEARS,  AND  WINDING  DEVICES. 

There  are  four  kinds  of  pro- 
pellers : 

1.  Propellers    carved     out     of 
solid  and  laminated  blocks. 

2.  Metal  propellers  with  curv- 
ed or  twisted  surfaces. 

3.  Built  up  propellers.     In  this 
type  a  small  block  is  used  as  a  hub, 
and   the  wood   or  metal   fans   are 
projected  out  from  this.    The  fans 
are  attached  on  the  diagonal. 

4.  Propellers  made  of    pressed 
wood  veneer.    These  are  excellent, 
but   require   more   skill   and   more 
apparatus  to  make. 

The  carved  out  propeller  is  the 
one  most  generally  used  and  is  not 
only  a  good  exercise  in  modeling 
with  a  knife,  but  is  a  good  service- 
able kind.  There  are  a  number  of 
types  of  propellers,  named  mostly 
by  men  who  have  designed  them. 
For  simplicity  in  laying  out  and 
carving,  I  like  the  Langley  type.  A 
rectangle  is  made  of  wood,  say 
3"xH"x6",  Fig.  244.  Draw  the 
diagonals,  as  in  Fig.  245.  With  a 
radius  of  4/',  and  center  at  the  in- 
tersection of  the  diagonals,  draw  a 
half-inch  circle.  Connect  the  diag- 
onal lines  and  the  circumference  of  the  circle,  as  in  Fig.  246,  and  cut 
down  to  the  outline  as  it  now  appears.  The  blank  is  now  as  shown  in 


FIGS.  244-251. 


121 


122 


KITECRAFT   AXD   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


Fig.  247.  We  will  now  take  off  two  big  slices,  not  all  in  one  cut,  but  in 
several.  Fig.  248  has  the  dotted  lines  showing  the  depth  to  be  cut,  and 
Fig.  249  shows  these  same  parts  cut  away.  Now  cut  away  x  and  x  until 
the  blade  is  curved  back  to  edges  z  and  z.  The  cut  away  portions  will 
be  as  in  Fig.  250.  Cut  the  opposite  side  the  same  way,  and  cut  away 
the  back  corners  a  little,  giving  the  result  as  shown  in  Fig.  251.  Sand- 
paper well  and  shellac.  Drill  hole  carefully  for  the  propeller  shaft. 


FIG.  252. 


FIG.  253. 


FIG.  254. 


The  principal  objection  to  the  metal  propeller  is  the  bending  that 
is  liable  to  occur  when  the  model  lights,  unless  there  are  lighting  devices 
underneath,  and  they  all  add  weight.  The  hub  propellers  may  have 
metal  or  hardwood  veneers  for  fans.  The  hub  may  be  round  or  square ; 
see  Figs.  252  and  253.  Very  good  propellers  may  be  made  in  this  way. 
Extra  curvature  of  the  outer  ends  of  the  fans  is  possible,  Fig.  254. 

The  veneer  propeller  must  be  steamed  and  pressed.  This  is  by 
far  the  most  difficult  to  make.  The  -fa"  hardwood  veneer  is  the  best. 
The  propeller  is  not  reoinforced  to  make  up  for  the  extra  thickness  of 
the  carved  propeller,  but  is  of  uniform  thickness  thruout.  The  veneer 
is  first  cut  to  shape  in  outline  and  then  is  steamed  and  twisted  to  shape. 
Fig.  255  shows  a  pattern  for  a  propeller  blade.  The  veneer  should  be 
steamed  or  soaked  in  hot  water  until  the  wood  is  very  pliable  and  soft. 
A  form  should  be  ready  so  as  to  get  both  wings  with  equal  twist  from 
the  central  portion.  I  will  suggest  one,  others  can  be  devised.  A  clamp 
is  necessary  for  the  center,  which  may  be  made  as  follows:  take  a 
*  one-inch  piece  of  wood  about  1}"  wide  and  any  length.  Set  it  up 


PROPELLERS,  MOTORS,  GEARS  AND  WINDING  DEVICES 


123 


edgewise.  Make  a  cut  -jV'  deep  and  one  mcn  l°ng  across  the  upper 
edge,  Fig.  256,  and  screw  a  small  piece  over  top  as  a  clamp.  After 
thoroly  steaming  the  propeller  blade  until  it  is  very  pliable,  insert  it 
into  the  clamp  at  the  center  and  twist  from  the  straight  side,  one  fan 
up,  the  other  down.  It  is  not  easy  to  get  the  two  sides  just  alike,  so 
I  recommend  the  bending  of  one  side  at  a  time,  and  when  that  is  dry, 


FIGS.  255,  256,  257,  258. 

remove,  and  reverse  the  ends,  being  sure  to  keep  the  straight  edge  to 
the  front,  or  the  same  as  before.  To  be  accurate,  there  must  be  a  guide 
block  to  bend  to.  For  a  nine-inch  propeller,  a  block  like  Fig.  257 
would  be  about  right.  Place  guide  in  position,  press  blank  down  to 
the  oblique  surface  and  secure  there  until  dry.  Repeat  for  the  other 

end.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  guide 
block  and  clamp  are  both  secured 
to  a  board  for  a  base ;  they  may  be 
secured  to  a  table  or  bench-top.  A 
clamp  might  be  devised  also  that 
would  hold  the  propeller  in  a  verti- 
cal position  with  guide  blocks  on 
FIG  259 

either  side  of  center  so  as  to  bend 

and  secure  both  ends  at  the  same  time. 

Another  way  to  bend  propellers  is   to   clamp   the   center   of   the 
blank  in  a  'vertical  position,  and  with  two  clamps  made  by  sawing  into 


124 


KITECRAFT   AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 


the  ends  of  two  pieces  of  wood,  Fig.  258,  a  cut  wide  enough  to  take 
the  thickness  of  the  blank,  and  deep  enough  for  the  width,  bend  one 
blade  forward  and  the  other  back,  Fig.  259.  The  small  clamps  on 
the  propeller  blades  should  be  placed  at  equal  distances  from  the  center, 
and  should  be  given  an  equal  amount  of  twist.  The  small  clamps  on 
the  blades  will  not  be  forced  over  until  they  touch  the  base,  so  blocks 
of  equal  size  should  be  used  as  stops  in  the  operation  of  twisting.  The 
clamps  should  be  secured  in  the  last  position  by  means  of  cord  to  the 
base  until  the  propeller  is  dry. 


FIG.  260. 


FIG.  261. 


Still  another  way  to  attain  the  twist  in  veneer  propellers,  would  be 
to  have  two  blocks  gouged  out  to  the  proper  shape,  one  just  fitting  in 
the  other.  After  the  propeller  is  shaped  in  outline  and  steamed,  it  is 
placed  between  the  two  blocks,  which  are  in  turn  clamped  firmly  to- 
gether until  propeller  is  dry. 

Motors.  Quite  a  number  of  devices  have  been  tried,  but  the 
rubber  string  is  by  far  the  most  efficient  power  yet  discovered.  Rubber 
has  a  great  deal  more  power  than  an  equal  weight  of  steel  in  all  ways 
that  steel  has  been  tried.  The  power  of  the  rubber  motor  is  dependent 
on  the  unwinding  of  the  strands  of  rubber  after  having  been  wound  up. 
The  longer  this  unwinding  may  be  delayed  the  further  the  little  air 


PROPELLERS,  MOTORS,  GEARS  AND  WINDING  DEVICES  125 

craft  may  be  propelled,  providing  there  is  force  enough  expended  at 
any  time  to  give  the  necessary  momentum  to  the  propeller.  A  long 
motor  has  more  revolutions  than  a  short  one.  Hence  some  advocate 
a  long  spined  frame  to  the  model  aeroplane.  Others  prefer  to  cut  the 
frame  a  little  shorter  and  give  great  pitch  to  the  propeller  which  de- 
mands more  energy  at  a  given  time,  hence  heavier  strands,  or  more 
strands  of  the  smaller  rubber  string.  With  the  greater  pitch  propellers, 
the  model  is  propelled  faster  and  so  may  cover  as  great  or  greater 
distance  than  one  with  a  motor  that  gives  more  revolutions  in  unwind- 
ing, but  it  is  possible  to  revolve  so  fast  as  not  to  propel  at  all.  Many 
use  the  ^"  square  rubber  string,  others  the  \"  while  many  use  ribbon 
rubber,  say  -fa"  to  •£$"  thick  by  -jV',  ^",  and  -£$"  wide.  For  small 
models,  rubber  bands  can  be  looped  together. 

Gears.  Small,  light  weight  gears  can  be  made  or  bought.  They 
are  attached  to  propeller  shafts  and  are  geared  back  different  pitches. 
Some  one  to  two,  others  one  to  three,  while  some  gears  are  one  to  One. 
It  might  seem  that  one  to  one  is  added  friction  and  no  gain  in  winding, 
but  a  hook  is  attached  to  each  gear  wheel  which  allows  two  rubber 
motors  instead  of  one,  and  allows  longer  unwinding.  If  the  rubber 
strands  are  divided  they  wind  up  many  more  turns  than  when  combined 
in  one  bunch.  If  eight  strands  are  twisted  together  you  cannot  turn 
as  many  times  as  with  four  strands.  Fig.  260  shows  a  one  to  one  gear 
and  its  connections,  and  Fig.  261  a  gear  with  a  greater  ratio. 

A  gear  of  one  to  one  might  be  placed  at 
the  opposite  end  of  the  framework  from  the 
propeller,  thus  extending  the  number  of 
revolutions  in  that  manner,  the  second  rope 
or  motor  extending  back  and  below  the 
first,  Fig.  262. 

Winding  Devices.  It  is  tiresome  to 
wind  up  the  rubber  motors  by  hand,  so 
mechanical  winding  devices  have  been  FIG.  262. 

made.    A  drill  with  a  hook  in  the  place  of 

a  drill-bit  is  quite  satisfactory.  It  is  best  to  have  a  ring  on  the  rubber 
motor  where  it  is  attached  to  the  anchoring  hook.  This  ring  can  be 
hooked  on  the  hook  of  the  drill.  This  winds  but  one  at  a  time,  so  they 


126  KITECRAFT    AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 

should  be  changed  about  in  the  winding  process,  first  on  one  and  then 
on  the  other  back  and  forth,  until  tight  enough.  A  very  good  winder 
can  be  made  of  a  revolving  egg-beater.  The  egg-beating  part  is  cut  off, 
leaving  two  shafts  instead  of  one.  If  there  is  a  hook  on  each,  both 
motors  can  be  wound  at  once  and  as  they  should  be  wound  in  opposite 
directions,  the  device  works  all  right. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 
TOURNAMENTS. 

All  of  the  work  of  construction  and  flying  of  kites  is  interesting  and 
profitable  for  development  yet  there  is  opportunity  for  furthering  this 
interest  by  bringing  about  yearly  tournaments  for  the  exhibition  of 
the  many  efforts  in  construction  and  design  that  are  undertaken.  The 
tournaments  have  a  further  usefulness  in  the  bringing  of  our  schools 
together  in  a  great  outdoor  social  event.  The  spirit  of  such  an  event 
is  excellent  and  the  day  is  a  joyful  one  to  the  children  and  parents. 
Thousands  attend  these  yearly  gatherings. 

The  Director.  It  is  necessary  for  a  good  tournament  that  some 
interested  and  competent  person  take  general  charge  of  the  whole 
affair  and  not  leave  the  planning  and  arranging  to  others.  Helpers 
are  necessary  at  the  tournament,  but  preparation  should  be  directed  by 
some  one  person.  In  so  doing,  we  do  not  overlook  the  helpful  coopera- 
tion of  the  principals  at  the  various  schools,  but  seek  to  interest  them 
as  to  possibilities  of  undertakings  by  their  children.  Instructions  should 
be  sent  out  from  time  to  time  as  to  new  things  to  be  constructed  and 
three  or  four  weeks  before  the  tournament,  quite  complete  instructions 
regarding  the  different  events  that  may  be  entered,  and  rules  pertaining 
to  each  should  be  posted  in  each  school. 

It  is  well  to  organize  a  little  in  the  schools  that  are  interested. 
Some  boy  may  be  recognized  as  a  leader  and  a  good  kite  maker.  He 
can  round  up  the  team,  get  the  boys  interested  and  encourage  them  to 
enter  events  not  yet  taken  so  as  to  cover  as  many  events  as  possible  and 
fewer  in  the  same.  The  preparation  for  the  tournament  gives  a  great 
opportunity  to  the  teachers  and  principals  to  get  in  touch  with  boys. 
Many  boys  have  come  to  know  their  teachers  with  just  such  an  intro- 
duction, and  it  has  been  the  means  of  starting  a  good  many  boys  to 
work  in  the  schoolrooms  on  their  studies.  Some  boys  seem  to  get  out 
of  gear  with  their  schoolroom  environment  and  need  a  little  touch  of 
play,  a  tramp,  or  some  form  of  sport  to  get  them  back  to  their  real 
school  life.  This  kind  of  undertaking  is  one  of  the  great  opportunities 
for  the  teacher  to  get  near  to  the  boys.  Some  teachers  are  enthusiastic 
enough  to  send  out  for  a  good  sized  bundle  of  sticks  and  have  some 
one  retail  them  out  to  the  boys  at  cost.  The  boys  appreciate  a  little 

127 


128  KITECRAFT    AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 

effort  of  this  kind  even  if  there  is  no  prospect  of  a  tournament.  A 
discussion  of  design  in  the  drawing  work  will  also  be  a  practical  de- 
parture from  the  regular  work,  and  will  again  arouse  the  lazy  boy  to 
do  his  best.  Now  if  the  teacher  will  take  some  interest  in  the  making, 
even  if  she  doesn't  know  very  much  about  it,  and  especially  in  the  flying 
of  the  kites,  she  will  be  progressing,  and  there  are  but  few  teachers 
who  cannot  learn  a  good  deal  about  kite  making  and  flying,  if  they  are 
willing  to  try. 

The  manual  training  teacher  and  the  shop  are  very  able  assistants 
to  the  kite  construction  projects.  In  some  schools,  a  week  some  time 
previous  to  the  tournament  is  allowed  for  the  special  construction  of 
kites  in  the  shop.  The  boys  will  waste  valuable  lumber  if  allowed  to 
rip  up  thin  boards,  so  it  will  pay  to  encourage  the  buying  of  spruce 
sticks.  There  is  much  adjustment  in  attaching  string  and  covering, 
and  putting  on  of  the  bridle;  as  much  as  possible  of  this  should  be 
reserved  for  home  work,  but  some  might  be  done  at  school. 

Suitable  Location.  But  the  work  at  the  school  is  not  a  tourna 
ment  altho  an  important  factor  of  it.  The  director,  we  will  call  the 
manager  of  the  tournament,  must  find  a  suitable  location.  It  must  be 
open  to  the  breeze,  free  from  wires,  accessible  by  street  car  service,  a 
little  to  one  side  so  people  will  have  to  go  a  little  out  of  their  way  to 
see  it,  hoodlums  don't  usually  care  so  much  for  beautiful  things, 
especially  if  it  is  some  trouble  to  go  to  it,  and  it  should  be  large  enough 
to  accommodate  a  great  many  kites  without  getting  into  too  close 
quarters.  Kites  are  liable  to  dive  around  somewhat,  so  if  they  are  not 
too  thick,  there  is  more  chance  to  get  the  kite  straightened  up  before 
getting  entangled  in  other  kite  lines.  Now  that  there  are  so  many  kinds 
of  kites,  it  is  necessary  to  locate  the  kinds  on  the  field.  The  kites  are 
divided  into  groups  when  the  list  of  events  is  sent  out,  and  these  groups 
are  placed  in  different  locations  on  the  field.  We  will  suppose  the 
following  group  is  to  be  located. 

Group  D. 

Measured  Events. 

27.  Highest  Flyer— Single. 

28.  Highest  Flyer — Tandem. 

29.  Highest  flight  in  five  minutes,  etc. 


TOURNAMENTS 


129 


On  the  ground,  separated  from  the  others,  would  be  a  bulletin  board 
that  is  fastened  to  a  post  and  this  is  set  in  the  ground.  The  post  is 
about  nine  feet  long,  and  the  bulletin  board  is  nailed  to  it,  the  lower 
edge  being  about  one  foot  down  on  the  post.  If  the  post  is  set  eighteen 
inches  in  the  ground  there  would  be  six  and  a  half  feet  up  to  the  lower 
edge  of  bulletin.  The  announcements  can  be  printed  with  chalk.  They 
stand  out  and  can  be  read  across  the  field,  see  Fig.  263.  The  tournament 
is  always  on  a  Saturday  afternoon,  so  the  bulletins  are. set  Saturday 
morning. 

If  there  is  no  space  fenced  off  for  aeroplane ' 
model  flying,  and  for  the  races,  a  few  posts  should 
be  set  and  two  wires  about  No.  9  run  around  an 
enclosure.  Make  it  an  enclosure,  for  if  you  don't  it 
will  be  impossible  to  keep  the  spectators  back.  We 
tried  a  V-shaped  fence,  but  it  wras  useless;  with  an 
enclosure  and  two  or  three  policemen  about,  it  is 
possible  to  keep  the  crowd  out. 

Judges.  Settle  on  your  judges  at  least  two 
weeks  ahead  of  the  tournament.  It  will  assist  in 
arousing  interest  in  the  schools  with  which  they  are 
connected.  Principals  and  manual  training  teachers 
should  be  available  and  serviceable.  It  is  not  nec- 
sary  to  be  a  kite  maker  to  be  able  to  judge  a  kite. 
About  three  judges  to  a  group  is  good,  then  if  one  fails  to  appear  you 
still  have  two.  Try  to  start  at  the  appointed  time  and  urge  your  judges 
to  be  there  on  time.  Caution  the  pupils  about  putting  their  kites  up 
before  the  time,  as  they  are  so  liable  to  accident  if  played  with  before- 
hand. 

Save  a  place  of  honor  for  your  superintendents.  They  may  be  asked 
to  award  prize  badges,  or  to  select  the  prettiest  kite  in  the  air,  and  the 
most  ingenious  device,  the  best  made  model  or  the  best  invention ;  not 
all  of  these  but  something  of  this  kind.  Don't  forget  to  use  them  in 
some  place.  Get  the  promise  of  two,  three,  or  four  policemen,  a  few 
days  ahead.  The  presence  of  a  few  good  officers  helps  in  curbing  desires 
for  destruction  among  a  few.  Kites  are  liable  to  accident,  so  if  you 


FIG.  263. 


130  KITECRAFT   AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 

can  have  a  kite  hospital  where  the  boys  can  get  a  little  paper  and  paste, 
string  or  stick,  it  will  sometimes  heal  quite  a  disappointment. 

An  information  bureau  is  a  good  feature.  Have  a  bulletin  showing 
its  location.  The  judges  as  well  as  the  children  and  parents  would  be 
glad  of  some  help  of  this  kind.  Official  badges  are  given  to  the  judges, 
director,  superintendents  of  schools,  information  and  badges,  and  helpers. 
The  badges  are  given  out  to  the  officers  at  the  information  bureau.  A 
small  stand  at  some  prominent  location  in  the  field  would  be  of  service  for 
the  giving  of  the  prize  badges  to  the  winning  contestants.  Each  winner 
receives  a  slip,  Fig.  264,  from  one  of  the  judges  of  his  group,  giving  his 
name,  school,  the  first  or  second  prize  and  event,  the  judge  keeping  a 


Los  Angeles  City  Schools 

KITH  DIPLOMA 
*r  il  knnutn  that      AO  nMA&^J  fft  (byMTtM/ 
of         (JjlAAn.o^d7   CUrU          School,  won  Z—  prize,  for 

QUAA&V    /Wv   /hz^X/ 
at  the  6  —      annual  Kite  Tournament  and  this  Diploma  is 
awarded  in  recognition  of  his  skill  so  exhibited. 

w.&fat&*ffAj 

/£-           District              ^^WjWa, 
Date     lYl(W  3o,w\Z.            CUaJ^3^.aJ37 

f^                 /                                                                                                                                     IVr>  '   '  K  "^  •*«<"**'"« 

/ 

FIG.  266. 

duplicate  record  on  a  mimeographed  sheet  that  is  mounted  on  a  piece 
of  cardboard,  Fig.  265.  The  pupil  takes  the  slip  to  the  awarding  stand 
and  hands  it  to  the  judges.  The  judges  turn  in  their  records,  and  the 
director  fills  out  a  small  diploma  of  recognition,  Fig.  266,  and  sends  it 
to  the  school  from  which  the  boy  has  entered.  It  may  be  a  girl ;  \ve 


TOURNAMENTS 


131 


Name 

School 

Event 

.Prize 

Name 

School 

Event 

.Prize 

Name 

School 

Event 

.Prize 

_ Name 

School 

Event 

.Prize 

Name 

School 

Event 

.Prize 

Name 

School 

Event 

Prize 


FIG.  264. 


132                              KITECRAFT   AND   KITE  TOURNAMENTS 

RECORD   SHEET   FOR  GROUP    II. KITE   TOURNAMENT. 

a.  Strong  puller  (over  3%  ft.) 

Glen  Mollohan first  prize  Magnolia  Ave.  school  34  Ibs. 

Richard  Hillman ..  second  prize  Vermont  Ave.  school  28  Ibs. 

b.  Strong  puller   (under  3/4  ft.) 

Elmer  Barr first  prize     Vermont  Ave school 

Corwin  Stephens.. second  prize     9th  St school 

c.  Yacht  race 

Archie  Zimmerman. . first  prize    Breed school 

second  prize      school 

d.  Quarter  mile  dash 

Nat  Stockwell first  prize     Union  Ave school 

Elgin  McNarry second  prize    McKinley  Ave school 

e.  Parachute  display 

Jessie  Frampton first  prize     Union  Ave school 

second  prize      school 

f.  Kite  antics 

Jas.  Bruce first  prize     Vermont  Ave school 

second  prize      school 

g.  High  flyer 

Loren  Eads first  prize    37th  St .school 

James  Fish second  prize    Loreta school 

W.  F.  Hughes  

Helen  E.  Hunt  

J.  W.  Hamer  

JUDGES 

FIG.  265. 


TOURNAMENTS 


133 


have  had  a  number  of  winners  among  the  girls.  These  slips  and  record 
sheets  for  the  judges  will  be  some  of  the  work  for  the  director  before 
the  tournament.  Each  pupil  who  wins  in  any  event  receives  an  ap- 
propriate badge,  Fig.  267. 

If  it  is  convenient,  it  is  always  well  to 
have  two  transits  give  the  actual  heights  of 
high  flyers.  Some  simple  ones  might  be 
made,  but  there  are '  often  students  who 
would  like  the  opportunity  to  do  some  work 
of  the  kind  for  practice.  It  is  well  to  send 
out  a  printed  list  of  the  winners  to  all  the 
schools  after  the  tournament.  It  might  be 
written  as  follows 

25.     Highest  Flyer — Tandem. 

First.     Albert    Johnson,    24    St. 

School. 

%     Second.     Victor  Wagoner,  Wash- 
ington St.  School. 

In  sending  out  notices  before  and  after, 
request  the  principals  to  place  them  in  a 
conspicuous  place  for  the  boys  to  see.  The 
principal's  office  is  not  a  good  place,  for 
some  will  not  go  to  the  office  to  study  them, 
these  boys  may  be  just  as  interested  but  they 
don't  care  to  have  us  know  it.  If  the 
material  is  where  the  boys  can  see  it  easily 
they  sometimes  get  interested  unawares  to 
themselves.  All  plans  should  be  placed  in 
an  open  place.  FlG  267. 


- 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
TOURNAMENTS,   CONTINUED. 

The  newspapers  are  glad  to  publish  notices  and  pictures,  and  some 
will  even  print  plans  of  work  free.  They  are  very  persistent  in  getting 
reports  of  the  tournament,  so  the  judges  should  be  careful  in  recording 
each  event.  The  reporters  will  be  on  the  ground  if  they  have  knowledge 
of  its  whereabouts. 

Ice  cream  and  sandwich  wagons  are  liable  to  get  in  the  way,  so  it 
is  best  to  restrict  them  to  the  margin  of  the  crowd.  They  should  not 
be  allowed  to  come  inside  any  of  the  locations  for  the  events. 

All  string  that  is  to  be  used  in  races  of  any  kind  should  be  measured 
beforehand.  It  is  best  for  the  director  to  take  charge  of  the  string  until 
time  for  the  event,  or  until  he  can  turn  it  over  to  the  judges  in  charge 
of  that  group.  Boys  are  liable  to  make  a  mistake  in  getting  their  string 
too  short,  so  it  must  be  measured.  I  place  a  couple  of  nails  one  hundred 
feet  apart  in  the  rail  of  the  board  fence,  the  boys  wind  about  that 
until  they  have  the  required  length,  and  by  counting  the  string  I  can  soon 
see  if  it  is  correct.  If  the  string  is  given  back  to  the  boy,  there  is  a 
temptation  to  take  out  some.  There  is  no  disadvantage  in  letting  out 
the  string  from  a  stick  in  the  races,  if  there  is  a  reel  to  attach  it  to  when 
it  comes  to  the  winding  in. 

Announcements  should  be  sent  out  a  week  ahead  of  the  tournament 
that  the  string  will  be  measured  such  and  such  afternoons,  perhaps  two 
days  before  the  tournament.  It  is  not  best  to  leave  it  until  just  the 
day  before,  as  the  director  should  be  as  free  as  possible  from  such  work 
at  such  time  in  order  to  give  full  attention  to  rounding  up  of  details 
that  are  sure  to  accumulate  toward  the  last  of  the  preparations. 

Quarter  Mile  Dash.  The  race  consists  of  the  letting  out  and 
winding  in  of  a  kite  on  one  quarter  mile  of  string.  The  boys  set  their 
reels  ready  for  the  best  speed  and  they  group  themselves  quite  close 
together,  but  far  enough  apart  to  prevent  mix-ups,  and  at  the  proper 
time  are  handed  their  string  that  has  been  measured  and  labeled  which 
they  attach  to  kite.  Each  boy  in  the  race  is  allowed  one  helper  and  the 
kite  may  be  held  by  the  helper  a  hundred  feet  away,  ready  to  toss  it  in 

134 


TOURNAMENTS,    CONTINUED  135 

the  air  at  thp  sign  for  starting.  When  all  is  ready,  the  one  in  charge  of 
the  group  calls  "ready!  go!"  The  kites  are  tossed  up  and  are  given  the 
string  as  fast  as  it  will  be  taken.  The  boy  with  a  steady  head  will 
sometimes  stop  playing  out  and  work  his  kite  up  a  little  to  get  more 
breeze.  If  there  is  plenty  of  breeze,  they  are  fed  all  the  string  as  fast 
as  it  is  pulled  out.  If  a  kite  drops  it  may  be  worked  up  again,  but  it 
must  go  to  the  end  of  the  quarter  mile  and  back.  A  time  keeper  is 
placed  by  each  contestant,  and  officers  are  needed  to  keep  back  the  on- 
lookers. As  soon  as  all  the  string  is  out  the  boy  slips  the  loop  on  the 
end  of  his  string  over  a  hook  on  the  reel  and  winds  in  as  fast  as  he 
can  turn.  The  kite  mounts  up  in  the  air  and  is  pulled  with  great 
violence  toward  the  reel.  If  a  string  breaks,  the  time  keeper  stops 
the  winding  until  the  kite  is  again  attached.  No  allowance  is  made  for 
mishaps.  The  kite  that  is  jerked  down  into  the  reel  first  is  winner,  and 
the  owner  is  usually  a  pretty  warm  boy.  The  helper  can  take  turns  in 
winding. 

Other  races  should  be  similarly  conducted.  We  have  had  races  in 
the  construction  of  a  tailless  kite,  including  the  lashing  and  stringing  of 
framework  and  covering,  attaching  of  bridle  and  the  kite  must  fly.  In 
all  pulling  contests,  spring  scales  are  used.  In  the  light  weights,  the 
twenty-five  pound  scales  are  best,  but  the  fifty  pound  is  more  serviceable 
for  all  around  purposes.  For  very  heavy  pulling,  large  ice  scales  might 
be  borrowed  for  the  day  from  some  hardware  man. 

To  measure  the  pull  of  a  kite,  the  string  is  looped  about  the  hook 
of  the  spring  and  the  record  made.  Several  records  are  made  of  each 
kite  over  a  period  of  about  thirty  minutes  or  so.  The  judges  going  to 
and  fro  measuring  this  one  and  that.  The  kite  should  be  ascending  to 
get  the  best  register.  It  is  well  in  trial  events  to  set  the  number  of  times 
that  each  aeroplane  may  be  tried  or  tests  of  pulling  permitted,  as  some 
will  tease  for  a  continual  performance. 

The  art  supervisors  and  teachers  are  good  as  judges  for  the  artistic 
events.  .  All  kites  are  in  the  air  most  of  the  time,  so  a  general  survey 
is  made  of  the  whole  field.  It  is  well  to  have  about  five  judges  on  this 
group.  Less  will  do  the  work  all  right,  but  it  is  well  to  draw  many 
into  the  service. 


136  KITECRAFT   AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 

If  the  director  could  be  on  horseback  so  as  to  be  easily  seen,  and 
also  be  able  to  get  about  easily,  it  would  help  out  considerably.  Mes- 
sengers from  judges  to  director  or  information  would  be  useful. 

Badges.  For  badges,  we  use  a  celluloid  button,  with  our  own  cut, 
the  ribbon  attached  has  printing  in  black.  The  officers  get  yellow,  the 
first  prize,  blue,  the  second,  red.  Some  years  we  have  used  different 
colored  buttons,  this  year  the  buttons  were  all  yellow,  the  ribbons, 
yellow,  red,  and  blue. 

See  the  street  car  officials  in  order  that  they  may  plan  accommoda- 
tions for  the  day.  Instructions  are  posted  for  the  car  men  by  the  officials, 
that  consideration  be  given  to  the  boys  with  their  kites  and  in  most  cases 
the  men  have  been  very  helpful  in  this  respect.  Of  course  large  kites 
cannot  be  taken  on  the  street  car.  A  great  many  are  taken  to  the 
field  in  automobiles. 

Just  before  the  tournament  it  is  rather  difficult  to  locate  the  boys 
making  their  kites,  as  they  work  in  secluded  places,  but  if  you  know  of 
some  that  are  making  progress,  a  photograph  by  the  newspaper  men  will 
add  considerable  zest  to  the  advertising  side  of  preparations. 

Get  your  school  officials  enthusiastic  first,  and  get  their  cooperation 
in  encouraging  the  undertaking,  for  it  is  a  great  school  social  gathering 
and  should  be  made  worth  while.  Then  boost  for  it.  Demonstrate  by 
making  or  flying  a  kite,  and  the  boys  will  take  care  of  the  rest. 

A  SAMPLE  ANNOUNCEMENT. 
MANUAL  TRAINING  OFFICE 

Los  Angeles  City  Schools 
KITES  AND  AEROPLANE  MODELS. 

New  Year's  Greeting  to  the 

Kite  Makers  of  Los  Angeles: 

The  Sixth  Annual  Kite  Tournament  will  be  held  April  20,  1912, 
at  Exposition  Park.  The  spring  vacation  will  be  a  good  time  to  design, 
construct,  and  try  out  new  ideas.  The  model  aeroplanes  will  have  a 
much  larger  place  than  heretofore  at  the  coming  tournament.  A  number 


TOURNAMENTS,    CONTINUED  137 

of  good  plans  of  kites  and  model  aeroplanes  will  be  sent  out  during  the 
coming  season. 

Spruce  sticks  can  be  obtained  again  this  year  at  1335  E.  6th  St.  at 
the  Southern  California  Box  Co.,  in  25c  bundles  or  more. 

The  Goodyear  Rubber  Co.,  No.  324  S.  Broadway  is  carrying  string 
rubber  and  will  have  one  sixteenth  and  one  eighth  inch,  very  good  sizes. 
Models  propelled  by  rubber  bands  should  be  from  20"  to  30"  across. 
Do  not  make  the  planes  too  wide,  much  of  the  failure  of  models  is  due 
to  this  mistake. 

Two  firms  in  the  east  are  advertising  small  gasoline  motors  for 
model  aeroplanes.  Models  to  carry  these  motors  should  be  from  6'  to 
S'  or  more.  Models  so  equipped  are  operated  by  cords  running  to  the 
ground.  One  boy  claims  to  have  succeeded  with  a  storage  battery  under 
his  arm  and  an  Ajax  motor  in  his  model.  If  we  get  our  model  well 
under  control  we  should  be  able  to  carry  the  storage  battery  on  a  wheel 
as  suggested  two  years  ago.  No  one  has  reported  a  success  with  the 
clockspring  device.  A  long  coiled  steel  wire  spring  has  more  promising 
possibilities. 

Look  for  advertisements  in  ''Popular  Mechanics"  and  other  maga- 
zines, for  firms  carrying  parts  such  as  gears,  rubber  motors,  etc.  There 
will  be  a  few  events  for  commercially  manufactured  models,  but  these 
are  not  to  compete  with  home  made. 

The  usual  kite  events  will  be  about  the  same  as  during  the  past  two 
years.  The  quarter  mile  dash  with  the  use  of  reels  will  be  used;  also 
an  eighth  mile  dash  will  be  listed  this  year  in  which  the  string  is  to  be 
would  in  by  hand. 

The  "Scientific  American"  of  October  14,  1911,  has  an  article  on 
"How  to  make  a  Model  Aeroplane  that  will  fly  700  feet".  Look  it 
up. 

Ask  at  the  libraries  for  Mr.  Collin's  books  on  "Model  Aeroplanes". 
There  is  a  second  book  out  by  this  author  that  seems  very  good. 

Look  out  for  ideas  in  the  daily  newspapers  and  at  the  Dominguez 
meet. 

Principals  please  post. 

Respectfully, 

CHAS.  M.  MILLER. 


138  KITECRAFT   AND    KITE   TOURNAMENTS 

MANUAL  TRAINING  OFFICE 

April  12,  1912. 

-  Sixth  Annual  Kite  Tournament  at 
Exposition    Park,   April    20,    1912. 

TIME: — No  kites  are  to  be  put  up  before  one  o'clock,  and  judging 
is  to  begin  at  2  p.  m. 

CARS : — Georgia  St.,  University,  Grand  Ave.  to  Figueroa  Junction, 
Vermont  Heights  or  Inglewood  on  Main  to  Figueroa  Junction. 

PLACES : — Bulletin  boards  will  be  used  as  usual — see  information, 
if  you  can't  get  located. 

RAIN: — If  the  afternoon  is  stormy,  the  tournament  will  be  post- 
poned two  weeks. 

GIRLS: — All  events  are  open  to  the  girls. 

ADMISSION: — No  admission  fee,  and  friends  invited. 

ARTISTIC  EVENT:— All  kites  will  be  judged  for  artistic  effect 
no  matter  where  located — must  fly. 

BALLOONS : — Boys  must  bring  their  own  balloon  equipment. 

STICKS  FOR  FRAMES:— Any  wood,  except  the  hardwoods, 
may  be  used  for  frames,  but  spruce  is  best. 

INTERMEDIATE  AND  HIGH  SCHOOL  BOYS:— All  inter- 
mediate boys  are  eligible  and  all  high  school  boys  who  have  been  in  a 
grade  school  since  last  tournament,  may  enter  from  such  school.  Look 
up  some  of  your  kite  makers. 

KITES: — All  should  be  encouraged  to  make  and  fly  a  kite,  even 
if  not  for  a  prize.  Make  it  a  kite  flying  day  for  your  school. 

EXTRA  PARTS: — Boys  should  bring  along  an  extra  stick  and 
some  paper  in  case  of  accident  to  kite. 

NEW  INVENTIONS :— Special  new  features  will  be  recognized 
if  they  have  real  merit. 

PRIZES: — Ribbon  badges  and  diplomas  will  be  awarded  as  in 
former  years. 

ORGANIZE: — Distribute  your  efforts  over  many  events. 

REGISTRATION:— Send  in  registration  to  Mr.  Miller  at  Grand 
Ave.  School  on  Friday.  Give  names  of  boys.  No  one  will  be  kept  out 
for  lack  of  registration. 


TOURNAMENTS,    CONTINUED  139 

MEASURING: — Kite  lines  for  quarter  and  one-eighth  mile  dashes 
and  yacht  race  will  be  measured  at  Grand  Ave.  School,  Thursday  and 
Firday  afternoons,  April  18th  and  19th. 

Come  one — come  all. 

Respectfully, 

CHAS.  M.  MILLER. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
CONCLUSION. 

Kite  making  and  kite  flying  have  been  enjoyed  for  centuries  in  the 
orient  and  for  a  good  many  years  in  this  country,  and  will  continue  as 
a  seasonal  sport  for  perhaps  all  time.  It  can  be  made  more  interesting 
and  useful  by  a  little  cooperation  on  the  part  of  the  gro\vn-ups.  It  may 
be  only  expression  of  appreciation  of  the  effort  put  forth  by  some 
otherwise  idle  fellow,  or  it  may  be  in  the  form  of  a  request  of  teacher 
to  pupil  for  a  nice  kite  as  a  gift  for  a  third  party,  or  it  may  be  the 
arousing  of  school  spirit  for  the  best  showing  at  a  tournament,  it  might 
be  assistance  rendered  in  planning  a  beautiful  kite,  and  it  might  be  a 
great  many  other  things  that  have  not  been  mentioned.  Kite  making 
will  not  catch  and  make  good  every  boy,  even  with  the  best  efforts  of 
the  best  teachers,  but  it  will  go  farther  than  any  other  enticement  toward 
bringing  about  good  comradeship  between  teacher  and  scholar,  which  is 
half  the  battle  with  uncertain  temperaments  in  some  boys.  We  need  to 
come  shoulder  to  shoulder  with  the  boys  to  help  them  most. 

But  the  merits  of  kite  making  go  farther  than  the  social  relationship, 
it  arouses  the  inventive  spirit  in  the  boy,  fills  in  many  otherwise  idle 
hours  with  good  healthy  sport  that  occupies  the  children  out  of  doors. 
It  is  not  wasted  time  unless  indulged  in  to  too  great  excess,  but  new 
developments  bring  about  new  studies  of  the  kite  problems  <that  are  as 
good  for  the  boys  as  problems  of  other  subjects  like  arithmetic  and 
geometry  for  we  must  remember  that  boys  have  subject  of  study  not 
found  in  text-books. 

Someone  told  me  not  long  ago  that  "no  one  could  think  an  evil 
thought  while  looking  up".  Some  one  else  has  written,  "If  the  outlook 
is  not  good,  try  the  uplook".  This  latter  has  a  greater  significance  than 
would  be  generally  applied  to  boys  flying  kites,  but  who  knows  what 
boys  are  really  thinking  about;  maybe  we  underestimate  their  abilities 
and  inclinations.  Our  boys  often  need  more  persistency  of  effort,  and 
must  be  held  to  their  jobs  by  much  attention  on  the  part  of  overseers. 
Most  boys  will  stick  to  kite  making  against  great  discouragement  and 
some  will  continue,  for  long  periods,  working  patiently  and  carefully 
until  they  succeed.  The  string  is  often  a  source  of  great  annoyance,  it 

140 


CONCLUSION 


141 


snarls  up  and  some  lads  will  cut  out  the  hard  knots,  but  others  will 
tackle  the  knotty  problems  and  untangle  them,  they  will  do  the  same 
with  knotty  problems  in  life  later  on.  It  is  patience  that  wins  in  many 
a  tangled  strife.  Boys  do  not  as  a  rule  have  as  good  feeling  for  color 
harmony,  or  so  the  ladies  think,  as  the  girls;  help  the  boys  out  a  little 
on  their  color  combinations  on  their  kites.  It  may  be  the  first  time  the 
boy  has  had  a  problem  of  his  own  in  color  work. 

Perhaps  the  little  aeroplane  does  not  go  very  far,  it  looks  like  a 
failure.  Do  you  look  on  and  pass  on?  If  the  model  goes  at  all  by  its 
own  power,  that  boy  has  made  a  something  that  has  overcome  the  force 
of  gravity  to  the  extent  of  traveling  transversely  to  its  downward  pull. 
Recognize  it,  and  encourage  the  boy.  There  is  a  difference  between 
flinging  one  so  that  it  will  travel  for  a  short  distance,  and  releasing  one 
that  travels  by  its  own  power.  The  former  may  be  a  deception.  Give 
credit  where  credit  is  due. 

The  balloons  have  very  little  lifting  power,  but  the  force  of  gravity 
has  been  overcome,  two  gases  of  unequal  density  have  been  placed  in 
juxtaposition  and  the  lighter  one  goes  up.  So  we  might  go  on  with 
each  of  the  subjects  attempted  in  this  book.  There  has  been  great 
demand  for  the  briefer  treatise,  and  I  hope  this  little  book  may  have 
met  the  expectancy  of  its  readers  more  than  half  way. 

Remember  it  is  not  just  the  pretty  kite  soaring  high  in  the  sky. 
remember  there  is  a  BOY  at  the  other  end  of  the  kite  line.  Boost 
for  him. 


CHAPTER  XX. 
BIBLIOGRAPHY  OF  KITES. 

Prepared  by  M.  Charlotte  Casey,  Los  Angeles  Public  School  Library. 

Adams,  J.  H.     Ho<w  to  make  kites  and  flying  gigs.     Woman's  H.  C 31  :44 

Baden-Powell,  B.  F.  S.     Kites,  their  theory  and  practice.     J.  Soc.  Arts 46:359 

Baden-Powell,  B.  F.  S.     Man  lifting  kites.     National 26 :494 

Baden-Powell,  B.  F.  S.     War-kites.     McClure 12  :S43 

Baldwin,    T.    W.     Outlook    tower    of    Beinn    Bhreagle.     (Tetrahedral 

principle. )     Sci.    Am 97 :242 

Beard,  D.  C.     How  to  make  tailless  kites.     Outing 48  :254 

Beard,  D.  C.     Two  tailless  kites  and  how  to  make  them.     Outing 48:254-6 

Beasley,  W.  L.     Picturesque  Chinese  kites.     Sci.  Am 89 :408 

Bell,  A.  G.     Frost  King,  a  tetrahedral  kite;  ill.     Sci.  Am.  S 63  :26264-6 

Bell,   A.    G.     Hargrove   box-kites   and   tetrahedral   kites   compared;    ill. 

S.   Am 63  :26269-74 

Bell,  H.  H.     Prof.  Bell  on  construction  of  kites.     Science,  n.  s 18  :204 

Bell.     Tetrahedral  kites  in  wireless  telegraphy;  ill.     Sci.  Am 94:324 

Bell,  A.  G.     Tetrahedral  principle  in  kite  structure.     Sci.  Am.  S 55:22947-50 

Bell,  A.  G.     Tetrahedral  principles  in  kite  structure.     Nat.  Geog.  Mag..  .  .14:219 

Bell,  A.  G.     Bell's  kite  experiences.     Sci.  Am 88  :334 

Briggs,   M.   N.     Tailless  kites,  how   made.     Outl 58 :1026 

Claudy,   C.   H.     Scientific  kite  flying.     St.   N 34:1068-72 

Clayton,    H.    H.     Alexander    Graham    Bell    on    kite    construction.     Sci. 

Am.   S 55 :22975 

Davis,  J.  W.     The  kite  as  a  life  saver  at  sea.     Engin.  M 7 :213 

Dines,  W.  H.     Kites  in  meteorological  work.     Nature 74:35-36 

Dines,   W.   H.     Scientific  kites— flying.     Nature 68 :1 52 

Eddy,  W.  A.     Photographing  from   kites.     Cent 32 :86 

Eddy,  W.  A.     Science  and  kite-flying.     Ind 52 :2333-4 

Eddy,  W.  A.     Experience  in  gliding  flight.     Eng.   M 26 :3 

Fergusson,  S.  F.     International  kite  ascensions;  ill.     Sci.  Am.  9 97:97-8 

Folding  Malay  kite;  ill.     Sci.  Am.  S 69:2490 

Frankenfield,  H.  C.     Work  of  the  United  States   Weather  Bureau  with 

kites.     Nature     63 :198 

(Same    in    Nat.    Geog.    Mag.    11:55.) 
Grovesnor,  G.  H.     Tetrahedral  kites  of  Alexander  Graham  Bell.     Pop. 

Sci 64 : 1 3 1  -  5 1 

Hatton,   J.     Kites  and  pigeons.     London,    Soc 21:392,    529 

Henderson,  C.     Bell  and  his  tetrahedral  kites.     World  To-day 13  :1274-7 

Hunter,    H.    C.     The    modern    kite    and    the    government    experiments. 

Outing    39  :43 

142 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  OF   KITES  143 

Investigation  of  the  upper  atmosphere  by   means  of  kites.     J.  Soc. 

Arts     .'SO  :858 

Blackw 179 :743 

Liv.   Age    259:169 

Kite,   The.     Eel.   M 147 :170 

Cur.  Lit 32:607 

Kite  Craft.     School  Arts  Book,   Feb.   1910. 

Kite  excursions.     Cur.   Lit 32 :607 

Kite  flying  at  sea.     Science,  n.  s 20 :848 

Kite  flying  in  the  East.     Cur.  Lit 30 :483-3 

Kite  flying  over^  the  Atlantic.     Science,  n.  s 23  :852 

Kite  flying  over  the  ocean.     Science,  n.  s 22 :882 

Kites  as  used  in  Meteorological  observances.     Sci.  Am 83:226 

Kites,    Cody's    man-lifting.     Science,    n.    s 20 :64 

Kites  in  life-saving  operations.     Sci.   Am 96 :207 

Loomis,    C.    B.     Kite    craze.     Cent 74 :346 

Lorrimer,  C.     Festival  of  the  lantern   kites.     Overland,  n.  s 48:251 

McAdie.     Franklin's  kite  experience  with  modern  apparatus.     Pop.   Sci. 

Mo 51:739 

Marvin,     C.     F.     Kite    as    an    instrument    of    meteorological    research. 

Frank.    Inst 148  :241 

Marvin,  C.  F.     Kite  meteograph  construction  and  operation.     Sci.  Am. 

S 49 :20166-7 

Miller,  C.  M.     Construction  and  flying  of  kites.     Manual  training 10:200 

Miller,   C.  M.     Kite  Craft.     School  Arts  Book,   Feb.,   1910. 

Miller,  J.  S.     Scientific  kite-flying.     Cent.  32 :66 32 :66 

Moffett,    C.     Scientific   kite-flying.     McClure 6 :379 

Mouillard,   L.   R.     Gliding  flight.     Cosmopol 16 :459 

Musical  kites.     Leis.   Hour    37 :473 

New  observation  kites  invented  by  S.  F.  Cody.     Sci.  Am.  S 55:22804 

Sci.  Am.   S 57:23524 

Observation  war-kites.     Sci.   Am • 88 :445 

Results  of  International  kite- flying  contests.     Sci.  Am 89:63 

Roberts,   A.   W.     Kites.     H.   Y.   P.     Vol 4:475 

Roberts,  A.  W.     Novelties  in  kites.     H.  Y.  P 5:411 

Rotch,  A.  L.     Kites  in  meteorological  observations.     Science,  n.  s 14:412 

Rotch,  A.  L.  Meteorological  observations  at  sea  with  kites.  Science,  n.  s.  14:896 
Rotch,  A.  L.  Meteorological  observations  with  kites  at  sea.  Science,  n.  s.  18:113 
Rotch,  A.  L.  Use  of  kites  in  meteorological  observations.  Sci.  Am. 

S 52:21718-20 

Rotch    A.  L.     Use  of  kites  for  meteorological  observations,  at  sea.     Sci. 

Am.  91:479 


144  KITECRAFT    AND   KITE   TOURNAMENTS 

Serviss,   G.  P.     Kite  principle  in  aerial  navigation.     Sci.  Am 88:484-5 

Signaling  with  kites.     Sci.  Am 83  :232 

Tetrahedral   kites.     Cur.   Lit 37 :70 

Tindal,   M.     Kite   craze.     Cur.   Lit 30:677-8 

Traction   by   kites.     Sci.   Am.   S SO  :20691 

Use  of  flexible  bridles  on  kites.     Sci.  Am 83  :213 

Use  of  kites  in  observation.     Sci.   Am.   S 55:22823 

Varney,  G.  J.     Kite  flying  in  1897.     Pop.  Sci.  Mo 53  :48 

Walsh,  G.  C.     Kites  in  <war  and  peace.     Chaut 29 :582 

Ward,  R.  D.     Kite  flying  in  Scotland  and  the  cyclone  theory.     Science, 

n.    s 18:155 

Ward,  R.  D.     Meteorological  results  of  kite  work.     Science,  n.  s 21 :433 

Wise,  H.  D.     Experiments  with  kites.     Cent 32 :78 

Wixon,  H.  H.     Principles  of  soaring  flight.     Sci.  Am.  S 60:24904 

Woglom.     On  scientific  kite  flying.     Spec 78:576 

Wright,  L.     How  to  make  a  gliding  machine.     Sci.  Am.  S 61 :25353 

Zehl,  E.     Kite  flying  as  a  fine  art.     World  To-day 13  :1016 

KITES. 

Nugent,  M.     New  games  and  amusements  for  young  and  old  alike 793  :111 

Rolch,  A.  L.     Kites.     (In  his  Sounding  the  ocean  of  air,  p.  117-174),  in  551.5:13 
Walker,    F.     Practical   kites    and   aeroplanes — how   to    make   and   work 

them    533.6 :10 

Woglom,  C.  T.     Parakites:     a  tratise  on  the  making  and  flying  of  tail- 
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Beard,  D.  C.     American  Boy's  Handybook. 
Beard,   D.   C.     Outdoor  Handybook. 


Especially  Hepful  for  the  Use  of  Boys 
in  their  Home  Shops 


BEGINNING  WOODWORK,  At  Home  and  in  School. 
By  Clinton  S.  V anDeusen. 

A  full  and  clear  description  in  detail  of  the  fundamental  processes  of 
elementary  benchwork  In  wood.  This  description  is  given  thru  directions 
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home  problems.  The  book  contains  more  than  one  hundred  sketches  and 
ten  working  drawings.  Price,  $1.00. 

MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS,   for  the  Boys'  Workshop. 
By  Harris  W.  Moore. 

This  book  contains  a  collection  of  working  drawings  illustrating  forty- 
two  projects,  overflowing  with  "boy"  interest.  It  is  a  popular  boy's  book 
that  is  truly  educational.  The  projects  are  all  new  in  the  manual  train- 
ing shop.  The  text  gives  instructions  for  making  each  project  and  treats 
of  tools  and  tool  processes.  Price,  $1.00. 

The  CONSTRUCTION  and  FLYING  of  KITES. 
By  Charles  M.  Miller. 

A.  book  of  unusual  interest  to  the  boy.  It  contains  seven  full-page 
plates  of  drawings  of  kites  and  fifteen  figures — over  forty  kites  shown. 
Details  of  construction  are  given  and  a  kite  tournament  is  described. 
Full  of  interesting  suggestions.  Price,  20  cents. 

ESSENTIALS  of  WOODWORKING. 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith. 

A  textbook  written  especially  for  the  use  of  grammar  and  high  school 
students.  A  clear  and  comprehensive  treatment  of  woodworking  tools, 
materials,  and  processes,  to  supplement,  but  not  to  take  the  place  of  the 
instruction  given  by  the  teacher.  The  book  does  not  contain  a  course  of 
models;  it  may  be  used  with  any  course.  It  Is  illustrated  with  photo- 
graphs and  numerous  pen  drawings.  Price,  $1.0iO. 


THE    MANUAL    ARTS    PRESS 

PEORIA,   ILLINOIS 


BOOKS    for    BOYS 


The   "Problems  Series"   of  Working  Drawings, 
Good  for  Either  Home  or  School  Use 


PROJECTS  for  BEGINNING  WOODWORK  and 
MECHANICAL  DRAWING. 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith. 

A  work  book  for  the  use  of  students  in  grammar  grade  classes.  It 
consists  of  working  drawings  and  working  directions.  The  projects  are 
such  as  have  proven  of  exceptional  service  where  woodworking  and 
mechanical  drawing  are  taught  in  a  thoro,  systematic  manner  in  the 
seventh  and  eighth  grades.  The  aim  has  been  to  provide  successful  rather 
than  unique  problems.  The  fifty  projects  in  the  book  have  been  selected 
and  organized  with  the  constant  aim  of  securing  the  highest  educational 
results.  The  book  is  especially  suited  for  use  in.  connection  with  "Es- 
sentials of  Woodworking"  by  the  same  author.  Price,  75  cents. 

PROBLEMS  in  WOODWORKING. 
By  M.  W.  Murray. 

A  convenient  collection  of  good  problems  consisting  of  forty  plates 
bound  in  board  covers  with  brass  fasteners.  Each  plate  is  a  working 
drawing,  or  problem  in  benchwork  that  has  been  successfully  worked  out 
by  boys  in  one  of  the  grades  from  seven  to  nine  inclusive.  Price,  75 
cents. 

ADVANCED  PROJECTS  in  WOODWORK. 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith. 

This  book  is  similar  to  "Projects  for  Beginning  Woodwork  and 
Mechanical  Drawing,"  but  is  suited  to  high  school  needs.  It  consists  of 
fifty  plates  of  problems  and  accompanying  notes.  It  is  essentially  a  col- 
lection of  problemsMn  furniture  making  selected  or  designed  with  refer- 
ence to  school  use.  On  the  plate  with  each  working  drawing  is  a  good 
perspective  sketch  of  the  completed  object.  In  draftsmanship  and  refine- 
ment of  design  these  problems  are  of  superior  quality.  It  is  in  every 
respect  an  excellent  collection.  Price,  $1,00. 


THE    MANUAL    ARTS    PRESS 

PEORIA,   ILLINOIS 


BOOKS    for    BOYS 


The   ''Problems  Series"  of  Working  Drawings 
Good  for  Either  Home  or  School  Use 


PROBLEMS  in  FURNITURE  MAKING. 
By  Fred  D.  Crawshaw. 

This  book,  revised  and  enlarged,  consists  of  43  full-page  plates  of 
working  drawings  suitable  for  use  in  grammar  and  high  schools  and  36 
pages  of  text,  including  chapters  on  design,  construction  and  finishes, 
and  notes  on  the  problems.  Each  project  Is  shown  In  its  completed  form 
by  a  perspective  sketch.  Loose  leaf,  bound  in  board  covers  with  brass 
fasteners.  Price,  $1.00. 

PROBLEMS  in  WOOD-TURNING. 
By  Fred  D.  Crawshaw. 

In  the  first  place  this  is  a  book  of  problems — 25  plates  covering 
spindle,  face-plate,  and  chuck  turning.  In  the  second  place  it  is  a  text- 
book on  the  science  and  art  of  wood-turning  illustrated  by  fifty  pen 
sketches.  It  gives  the  mathematical  basis  for  the  cuts  used  in  turning. 
In  the  third  place  it  is  a  helpful  discussion  of  the  principles  of  design  as 
applied  to  objects  turned  in  wood.  It  is  a  clear,  practical  and  suggestive 
book  on  wood-turning.  Price,  80  cents. 

PROBLEMS  in  MECHANICAL  DRAWING. 

By  Charles  A.  Bennett.     With  drawings  made  by  Fred  D.  Craw- 
shaw. 

This  book  consists  of  80  plates  and  a  few  explanatory  notes,  and  is 
bound  in  board  covers  with  brass  fasteners.  Its  purpose  is  to  furnish 
teachers  of  classes  beginning  mechanical  drawing  with  a  large  number  of 
simple,  practical  problems.  These  have  been  selected  with  reference  to 
the  formation  of  good  habits  in  technique,  the  interest  of  the  pupils,  and 
the  subjects  generally  included  in  a  grammar  and  first-year  high  school 
course.  Each  problem  given  is  unsolved  and  therefore  in  proper  form  to 
hand  to  the  pupil  for  solution.  Price,  $1.00. 


THE    MANUAL    ARTS    PRESS 

PEORIA,   ILLINOIS 


BOOKS    for    BOYS 


Some  Choice  Books  for  Home  or 
School  Libraries 


HANDWORK  in  WOOD. 

By  William  Noyes. 

A  handbook  for  teachers  and  a  textbook  for  normal  school  and  college 
students.  A  comprehensive  and  scholarly  treatise,  covering  logging,  saw- 
milling,  seasoning  and  measuring,  hand  tools,  wood  fastenings,  equipment 
and  care  of  the  shop,  the  common  joints,  types  of  wood  structures, 
principles  of  joinery,  and  wood  finishing.  304  illustrations— excellent  pen 
drawings  and  many  photographs.  Price,  $2.00. 

WOOD  and  FOREST. 

By  William  Noyes. 

A  companion  volume  to  "Handwork  in  Wood,"  by  the  same  author. 
Especially  adapted  as  a  reference  book  for  teachers  of  woodworking. 
Not  too  difficult  for  use  as  a  textbook  for  normal  school  and  college 
students.  Treats  of  wood,  distribution  of  American  forests,  life  of  the 
forest,  enemies  of  the  forest,  destruction,  conservation  and  uses  of  the 
forest,  with  a  key  to  the  common  woods  by  Filibert  Roth,  Describee  67 
principal  species  of  wood  with  maps  of  the  habitat,  leaf  drawings,  life 
size  phtoographs  and  microphotographs  of  sections.  Contains  a  general 
bibliography  of  books  and  articles  on  wood  and  forest.  Profusely  Il- 
lustrated with  photographs  from  the  United  States  forest  service  and 
with  pen  and  ink  drawings  by  Anna  Gausmann  Noyes  and  photographs 
by  the  author.  309  pages.  Price,  |3.00. 

DESIGN  and  CONSTRUCTION  in  WOOD. 

By  William  Noyes. 

A  book  full  of  charm  and  distinction  and  the  first  to  give  due  con- 
sideration to  the  esthetic  side  of  wood-working.  It  is  Intended  to  give 
to  beginners  practice  in  designing  simple  projects  In  wood  and  an  op- 
portunity to  acquire  skill  in  handling  tools.  The  book  Illustrates  a  series 
of  projects  and  gives  suggestions  for  other  similar  projects  together  with 
information  regarding  tools  and  processes  for  making.  A  pleasing  volume 
abundantly  and  beautifully  illustrated.  Price,  $1.50. 


THE    MANUAL    ARTS    PRESS 

PEORIA,   ILLINOIS 


University  of  California 

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